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What works about Proactiv is the system. There is nothing special about Proactiv--it's just the fact that you are using a regimen. The active ingredients in Proactiv (depending on the product) are salicylic acid, sulphur, and benzoyl peroxide. All of these active ingredients can be found in products available at Target or whatever for much less.
I really recommend Paula Begoun's books for more information on skin care products. They're an invaluable resource.
The KISS Method of Skincare:
1) Use a gentle, mild soap-free cleanser, like Neutrogena's Fresh Foaming Cleanser. There is no point in using a cleanser with an active ingredient such as salicylic acid in it--it's just going to wash off anyways.
2) If you need to exfoliate, do it gently and use a clean wash cloth. No need to buy scrubs or anything fancy. Rub the wash cloth in gentle circles over your face.
3) Use a moisturizer that is non-comedogenic. If your skin is not sensitive, you should consider using a moisturizer that has low levels of alpha hydroxy acids (such as glycolic acid or lactic acid) or beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid)--but don't do this in combination with physical exfoliation. Both AHAs and BHAs act as chemical exfoliants. Too much exfoliation=irritation=more acne. But you do need a little exfoliation to get your skin clear, and keep it clear--otherwise your pores will get clogged up with gunk.
And, yes, you can use an astringent if you so desire, but it isn't going to affect your pore size. It's merely one more way to get an active ingredient on to your skin. Witch hazel makes a great, affordable, and effective astringent--after all, they make salicylic acid out of witch hazel, so it functions as a BHA when applied to skin.
But the trick is not to freak out your skin with too many products or chemicals. Personally, I use a soap-free cleanser, witch hazel, and Nivea Simply Glowing moisturizer (no active ingredients) with occasional physical exfoliation (via washcloth), and it's quite effective.
Oh, and another thing--take into consideration what your face comes into contact with. Do you touch your face a lot? Do you change your pillowcases on a regular basis? Do you let your hair touch your face considerably? Do you talk on the phone a lot? These things can introduce a surprising amount of bacteria and other things besides to your face, which can lead to acne.
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If I am not better, at least I am different. --Jean-Jacques Rousseau
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