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Lessons. I took classical piano from ages 6 through 18. Some time in high school I discovered Jazz and started figuring out what those weird chord thingies are. Fortunately my classical teacher had grounded me very thoroughly in music theory, so it was easy enough to pick up chord structures.
I took a few semesters of jazz piano in college, and several months of lessons a few years ago. It's enough that I can play most any tune in the Real Book and improvise passably. I have sat in with my little brother's jazz band (he's in an MFA program for jazz percussion) and didn't stink the place up too bad.
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