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Old 07-27-2006, 07:30 AM   #46 (permalink)
Hektore
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Location: Greater Harrisburg Area
Quote:
Originally Posted by noahfor
i have a question as well: i want to get better at rock climbing, specifically bouldering. what is the fastest way to accomplish this? should workout besides climbing, or will that hinder my gains? any tips will be appreciated. if you don't know about climbing specifically, that's cool.
I like to climb as well, and my current understanding is the best workout for climbing is climbing. Treat climbing like a workout when you go, especially bouldering because it is so short and high intensity. Do sets, with rest intervals the works, don't go two days in a row, and don't overdo it when you're there.

For workouts separate from climbing, typically you want a lot of upper body focus, not on the lower body. I don't think I've ever heard of someone failing on a route because of leg pump. For climbing in general (as opposed to bouldering specifically, but much of it still applies), the book how to climb 5.12 is pretty helpful. A friend of mine owns it and while I haven't read it cover to cover the parts that I have read contain good, concise information. Also, I don't know your living arrangment but you can usually build a pretty nice campus board relatively cheaply. They don't take up much space and provide you with a great climbing-oriented workout opportunity if you can't get to the gym(either or them) all the time. If you aren't sure how to build/use a campus board there is a nice guide(.pdf) at metolius.

Also something I have found to be incredibly helpful is completing a route multple times. Many people do a route once and never even look at it again, but if you rework the problem multiple times (over a few days) you will better commit the movement to memory, refine it so you use less energy and train the muscles used specifically for that movement.
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