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ngdawg · 06-12-2006, 09:03 PM

I got ripped off by Midas-they pulled the Master Cylinder bit(it's nothing more than a resevoir, really), then had the nerve to leave the cap off and when I came back a week later because the air the MC was sucking in ruined the new brakes, they claimed it wasn't their fault. I'm not that easy to pacify-they fixed their 'mistake'.
My former Chrylser dealer tried to rip me off with doing an unauthorized tune-up, adding almost $150 to the bill. I fought that(had a nice audience of salespeople as I yelled at the service manager) and when the cashier asked if I'd be back when the tune-up was really due, I replied, 'Honey, the way y'all do business, you won't BE here by then". They weren't.
Aamco transmissions tried to rip off the spouse by putting in a cut gear. They went out of business within the year and when his reverse failed(13 months after the work ws done), we went back to that building, now with a new transmission company. The manager said a LOT of people were coming back-best he could do was give us a 'fleet price'.
Goodyear has tried twice to rip us off. First time, for a tie rod end and upper ball joint on our old Cordoba. Didn't fall for it and demanded we get the car back. Their $400 estimated job cost us under $100-spouse did the repairs himself. Second time, different Goodyear, all I wanted was to have the spouse's original wheels switched to new chrome ones. They didn't give us back the originals and had to go back and demand them-they were packed as if ready to be shipped and that was within an hour of picking up the car.
Gilda, best thing you can do is ask questions. Know exactly what's on your car, what it does and the service requirements and intervals. The Chrysler dealer did a tune-up at 36k miles when the intervals were to be 100k. I knew this, they assumed I didn't and went ahead even though I told them specifically what I wanted done.
When you are having work done, ask them what they are going to do and why. Demand to be shown the damaged parts BEFORE they are out of the car. A good mechanic will not have to be asked, he will take you in and show you. Or have a friend look at the car for signs of trouble; excessive rust, oil where oil shouldn't be, belts that looked grazed or chipped. Mechanics aren't needed for that, these are obvious enough to anyone.
Be wary of any mechanic that tells you that something needs to be worked on that has NOTHING to do with why you brought it in. If you're getting an oil change and he tells you your transmission is 'slipping', say thanks and leave. You know your car, it's noises and performance; if something's 'slipping', you'd know.
When taking it in anywhere for an advertised special, be assertive. If they're running a $49.95 'brake special', ask what exactly it includes and don't fall for that 'while we were replacing the pads, we noticed the rotors needed turning'. If it's not included, again, say thanks and leave and don't pay more than what was agreed upon. Make a scene if you have to. Bait and switch is illegal, but it's a part of business because they 'know' most women don't know their cars.
Which brings me to the last part-learn about your car. How many belts (timing, alternator, etc), what kind of brakes (all-disc, front disc, rear rotor), maintenance intervals(listed in the car's manual). So-called 'spongy' brakes feel like they won't grab when they're supposed to; 'pinging' when you step on the gas sounds like a faint knock and the car will hesitate-that could be either dirt in the carburetor or it's time for a tune-up. There shouldn't be fluids under your car when it's parked. Green is a radiator leak, oil is an oil leak. Transmission fluid is pinkish but if you look under the car and see brown wet, you have a transmission problem.
Hope this helps!

06-12-2006, 09:03 PM	#37 (permalink)
ngdawg peekaboo Location: on the back, bitch	I got ripped off by Midas-they pulled the Master Cylinder bit(it's nothing more than a resevoir, really), then had the nerve to leave the cap off and when I came back a week later because the air the MC was sucking in ruined the new brakes, they claimed it wasn't their fault. I'm not that easy to pacify-they fixed their 'mistake'. My former Chrylser dealer tried to rip me off with doing an unauthorized tune-up, adding almost $150 to the bill. I fought that(had a nice audience of salespeople as I yelled at the service manager) and when the cashier asked if I'd be back when the tune-up was really due, I replied, 'Honey, the way y'all do business, you won't BE here by then". They weren't. Aamco transmissions tried to rip off the spouse by putting in a cut gear. They went out of business within the year and when his reverse failed(13 months after the work ws done), we went back to that building, now with a new transmission company. The manager said a LOT of people were coming back-best he could do was give us a 'fleet price'. Goodyear has tried twice to rip us off. First time, for a tie rod end and upper ball joint on our old Cordoba. Didn't fall for it and demanded we get the car back. Their $400 estimated job cost us under $100-spouse did the repairs himself. Second time, different Goodyear, all I wanted was to have the spouse's original wheels switched to new chrome ones. They didn't give us back the originals and had to go back and demand them-they were packed as if ready to be shipped and that was within an hour of picking up the car. Gilda, best thing you can do is ask questions. Know exactly what's on your car, what it does and the service requirements and intervals. The Chrysler dealer did a tune-up at 36k miles when the intervals were to be 100k. I knew this, they assumed I didn't and went ahead even though I told them specifically what I wanted done. When you are having work done, ask them what they are going to do and why. Demand to be shown the damaged parts BEFORE they are out of the car. A good mechanic will not have to be asked, he will take you in and show you. Or have a friend look at the car for signs of trouble; excessive rust, oil where oil shouldn't be, belts that looked grazed or chipped. Mechanics aren't needed for that, these are obvious enough to anyone. Be wary of any mechanic that tells you that something needs to be worked on that has NOTHING to do with why you brought it in. If you're getting an oil change and he tells you your transmission is 'slipping', say thanks and leave. You know your car, it's noises and performance; if something's 'slipping', you'd know. When taking it in anywhere for an advertised special, be assertive. If they're running a $49.95 'brake special', ask what exactly it includes and don't fall for that 'while we were replacing the pads, we noticed the rotors needed turning'. If it's not included, again, say thanks and leave and don't pay more than what was agreed upon. Make a scene if you have to. Bait and switch is illegal, but it's a part of business because they 'know' most women don't know their cars. Which brings me to the last part-learn about your car. How many belts (timing, alternator, etc), what kind of brakes (all-disc, front disc, rear rotor), maintenance intervals(listed in the car's manual). So-called 'spongy' brakes feel like they won't grab when they're supposed to; 'pinging' when you step on the gas sounds like a faint knock and the car will hesitate-that could be either dirt in the carburetor or it's time for a tune-up. There shouldn't be fluids under your car when it's parked. Green is a radiator leak, oil is an oil leak. Transmission fluid is pinkish but if you look under the car and see brown wet, you have a transmission problem. Hope this helps! __________________ Don't blame me. I didn't vote for either of'em.