Uff, she said she doesn't love you? That's a rough one... and there's no answer for how to change that. You can't make anyone love you. But does she *want* to love you back, and just can't? Or has she gone past the point of no return, in her heart? It almost sounds like she has placed you back in the Friend/Nice Guy Zone... except that you're her husband.
About the waterpark comments... without knowing her, it's hard to say what she meant. Why don't you ask her directly? I've heard off-the-cuff comments like that, and sometimes they are serious and sometimes the person just wasn't thinking about the impact it would have. It's always best to address it directly to dispel any passive-aggressiveness. (That reminds me that I need to do the same tonight, actually.)