Damn. That's a good one. Wish I were there. I love this kind of troubleshooting!
OK, let's back up a bit. If you moved the whole sub box + amp, then we need to suspect everything. Can you see inside the sub box? There is a chance of some loose connection there. Likely not completely disconnected, because now when you turn on your Jeep and tunes, you still get a thump so this likely means there is power throughout the circuit. If you can take a look at that, just double check.
The fuses were blown once, which is a last ditch effort for most car amps. They usually occur due to either a short or too much power being called for, like when you really crank it up. Since it was working before, we can rule out problem two here and focus on shorts. However, if it is an internal problem with the amp, the fuses may never blow because a component inside the amp trips the protection circtuitry. Rather confusing. For instance, in one of my old soundstream amps, it took five minutes or so for the amp to warm up, then it would just quietly die. It turned out to be an output diode, and went to the shop. Yeah, I know that doesn't help.
How is your remote turn on lead to the amp? Trace that as far as you can, and even disconnect and reconnect it. While you're at it, disconnect and reconnect your speaker leads at the amp. Even one strand of wire can cause a short.
I'm still concerned that maybe when the fuse blew, it really was a last ditch effort and something inside the amp took the brunt of the 14V...which would really be a bad design.
One good thing, though, is that the amp keeps coming on. Something is still working in there......
I'll check back on this if I come up with anything else.
Edit: OH! Check your RCAs for continuity as well. Check ground (sleeve) to ground (sleeve), check tip to tip, then check sleeve to tip. THERE SHOULD BE NO CONTINUITY FROM SLEEVE TO TIP. (I'm sure you already knew that...haha)
Last edited by jujueye; 11-06-2005 at 02:23 PM..
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