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kazoo · 10-14-2005, 04:24 PM

Part of the problem with mounting a heater on a shelf is that heat rises, so you're really effectively heating the level of the heater and up. It feels toasty to an adult, because you're standing. I'd give a nickel to know the difference between ceiling and floor temperature in such an arrangement. This is why electric radiant baseboards with integral or wall mounted thermostats are the simplest for DIY jobs. Your only restriction is that you cannot locate them beneath wall receptacles, as flexible appliance cords across heaters is a bad plan. Quick and dirty sizing method is square foot of the room times 10 = wattage needed. Radiant baseboard heaters are good for 250 watts per foot of heater, so an 8 x 8 bedroom needs 64 x 10 or 640 watts of heat, so I'd install a 3 foot or 750 watt baseboard unit.

10-14-2005, 04:24 PM	#19 (permalink)
kazoo Psycho Location: Where the night things are	Part of the problem with mounting a heater on a shelf is that heat rises, so you're really effectively heating the level of the heater and up. It feels toasty to an adult, because you're standing. I'd give a nickel to know the difference between ceiling and floor temperature in such an arrangement. This is why electric radiant baseboards with integral or wall mounted thermostats are the simplest for DIY jobs. Your only restriction is that you cannot locate them beneath wall receptacles, as flexible appliance cords across heaters is a bad plan. Quick and dirty sizing method is square foot of the room times 10 = wattage needed. Radiant baseboard heaters are good for 250 watts per foot of heater, so an 8 x 8 bedroom needs 64 x 10 or 640 watts of heat, so I'd install a 3 foot or 750 watt baseboard unit. __________________ There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy