The absolute WORST thing you can do like Smackre said is getting a ball drilled for "max performence" or in other words, every piece of hook you can get out of it.
2 reasons, 1 because in carry down late in league or tournamts, these balls get very iffy on the backends. YOu lose alot of consistancy in reaction, and lost alot in angle to the pocket. 2, becase these balls are only useful on 1 condition, depends on surface (And you won't understand this right away, but as you get further along in your game you'll know what I'm talking about) and ball of course, but most are useless on heavy oil conditions, or heavy carry down, and complete useless on dry conditions, because they just don't store any energy down the lane. Wish I could comment on today's equipment, but it'll be 3 seasons this year since I threw a ball. I have NO idea whats out anymore.
I personally had the most success with things with a low RG (Radius of Gyration) and medium top wieghts. (1.8-2.5). With that combo, sanding to 400 and finishing with 2000 grit polish, and keeping pins above your fingers, you get good mid-lane roll, with (depending on ball) strong back ends, or move the CG to tame it down slightly, and get good arcing roll, or even getting the ball to hook and stop.
You wouldn't believe a bowling ball would involve that kind of physics!
I am also a cerfitified YABA instructor, and I haven't coached for a few years now, but I also was an instructor for a very basic portion of Dick Ritger's when I was 19-20 and 21, and taught the basic class locally with another guy who was a Ritger instructor. Shot my first 300 when I was 14, first 800 when I was 16. I've got 13 300's and 8 800's and held the Alaska state record for a total of about 17 hours (I shot 845 on a Saturday night in a tournament, 3 oclock the next afternoon, guy by the name of Robert Hammond shot 852. Just my luck.). Kinda cool to say though.
