oh we do comerical buildings all the time. thing is with our wall forms.. we have poured many 100x300 or so buildings slabs and none have blown out yet. the idea is to save on material cost. compared to a 2x12 our wall forms hold 70% better in any situation. you have the form, stakes and kickers, then a 2x4 inset on top all around to give even more hold to it. plus the dirt that was dug for the spread footers at beams is places on the outside next to the form. we use a "vibrator" along the inside to smooth out the edges and such. plue it ppt post tension. and when we pull it all off none of it is warped like you can get with just using 2x12.
our slabs are 4-6 inchest thick unless stated other wise. on the sides and the beams its 18 inchest to 2ft deep. like sitting a bowl upside down. with the cable lock system inside it holds to form.
using plates instead of bolts for metal buildings is so nice. just weld the beam to the plate that is inset in the slab. ive seen a high windstorm just up in arkansas remove several "poll barns" yet ours stayed with just minor dmg to the roof.
flyash.. yeah we can get a pour with out it. but some reason they hate to do it for us.
with flyash just takes longer to set up and you can get a crust on top and underneath its wet as all get out. heh nothing like watching someone put a machine on a slab and its still just as wet as it was 2-3 hours ago.
on your prefab building. id go at least 6 inches thick all around. usually what we would do and i call it over kill, is to first make a 4inch footing where you will set up all around. then from there go up another 6 inches with 2x6's over all 1 foot depth this way keeps roots and such outta the surface on the inside. citters have to dig a bit to get under it. and such. make sure if the prefab is made mostly of wood you pull up all wooden stakes to keep the termites away. it be a good idea to spray the ground inside the area with bug spray or such before the building goes up.
also on a prefab, dont know how yours is built but we usualy will stick in ancor bolts. shapped like an L that the _ part goes in with the | part sticking up you just paddle drill holes then set it down on it and slap a nut on the bolt and your done. you can chinch nail with concrete nails or hammer drill down to get an anchor if you want but a bolt holds better then just slapping it down.
also, we will make a floating form. just a board that we pour around then pull it up before it gets hard. this is how you get those nifty porches and carports inside a house to work. heh they just set the building down inside the indentions, but its a so so job cuz of what the building is made of. wood tends to expand so that could be bad.
but over all. id go with 2x6's you can bring the dirt inside them up to 4 inches that way concrete or bagcrete wont get under your boards. either put fiber or put in rebarb and your set.
fiber in concrete. im either way on this. ive seen slabs with wire and metal all inside it crack to eternity. fiber if your slump and mix type is right works just as good or better.
we only pour 3000 or 5 sack on a job.
new orleans would be a blast i bet. we say busy in shreveport, bossier, and benton moslty. tons of suburbs going up all the time in benton. usually get get the house slab, drive and walkways and shed buildings to do.
and we do all this with a 4 man crew. heh why people need a 8-12 man crew is beyond me. granted on days we pour big slabs we use a finishing crew.
reason i love this job so much. the only excerise i get. plus when it rains i get a day off. how many people in factory and office jobs get to do that. plus i make enough that a day or two off like that dosent hurt us that much.
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