http://www.mcli.dist.maricopa.edu/tut/
This is the site I used back in 1994 to learn HTML by myself. It wasn't much then, but I see now they've really ramped it up. This will teach you, step by step, what you need to do to create HTML by hand by having you create a site of your own with baby steps!
Trust me, you'll be glad you learned it and not had it shoved down your throat by a WYSIWYG editor.