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Further, it depends a lot on whether your blades are real, or wall hangers- living in new orleans, you will have a terrible humidity problem, but if you are talking about wall hangers, done up out of stainless steel, then it hardly matters and wd-40 will do the trick- also, some manufacturers of functional blades are now sealing their blades with laquer- Museum replicas (windlass steelcrafts) now seals most of their blades- Some tips from a blade dealer (me) on dealing with the demon rust on real blades:
if you are going to store a western blade in a leather sheath, be prepared for some darkening, and clean it at least every three months- a little talcum powder poured into the sheath also helps stop the blade from popping rust from the humidity
Katanas from reputable manufacturers (Bugei trading and paul chen come to mind)
should have a good enough seal to prevent a lot of the humidity based problems
For blades displayed w/o sheaths, ie on a wall, look into reniassance wax, or another microcrystaline preservative wax- you only tend to have to coat once a year - also dust your blades as dust wicks mosture and moisture is evil....
Do not handle the blade of a good weapon with bare fingers. it leaves corosive oils on the blade and results in rust and finger prints that darken and become indellible
- mirror finishes rust first, but few real swords have them- for real blades that get rusty, a scotchbrite and wd-40 will give you a good satin finish
- there is a product called a rust eraser that I am a true believer in- it really works, but will kill a mirror pollish.
once again the point is mostly moot if you are dealing with looks only wall hanger blades.........
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Thought the harder, Heart the bolder,
Mood the more as our might lessens
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