Here's a quick way to start. Make sure you have eye protection, especially if it's a wood target, since splinters can fly back pretty far. If the blade is long, you may want to start with leather gloves to avoid nasty cuts along the bases fo your fingers. Since I used a tree as my target to learn, I'll use that as an example. Just visualize your own target whenever I say "tree." It's a good way to start since nobody is going to give you crap about throwing a knife at a tree in your back yard, and there isn't much around to damage the knife when you miss. Make sure the area behind your target is clear for at least 50 feet and that the sides are clear for at least 20.
Stand 8 feet from your target. If you have a camera that you can set up perpendicular to the throw, do so now. If not, a friend standing back and watching can help.
Wrap your fingers loosely around the knife with the tip touching you palm just behind the base of the pinky finger and the handle protruding from your grip between the index finger and thumb. If it iis a single-bladed knife, the bladed side should be the leading edge in the spin.
Lift your arm up with your elbow bent completely, and your hand positioned just avobe and behind your shoulder. The handle of the knife should be pointed straight down. If it falls out of your hand, your grip is too loose.
Practice this next motion slowly several times without the knife, and have either the camera or the friend watch to make sure your arm moves in a flat plane parallel to the flat edge of the knife, and doesn't flail around at all.
Swing your arm forward. Make sure you're throwing When your upper arm is parallel to the ground, keep it in that position. Snap your wrist forward to impart spin to the knife. When your forearm is perpendicular to your upper arm, release the knife by opening your hand and allowing it to continue the motion unimpeded. The blade will most likely brush against your thumb and palm as it leaves your hand. If you do it right, you won't get cut. Since you're just starting, you should be using leather gloves and knives that with edges that aren't razor-sharp. Follow through the motion until your arm is fully extended. The knife should spin as it flies forward, and moments later, bounce off the tree with a resounding clang. Mark the spot where your fron foot was, and the spot directly under your hand. If a friend is watching, have them mark the spot under where the knife was released.
At this point, you should ask your friend who was watching, or review footage on the camera, and check the trajectory of the knife. If it goes up, release it later in the swing. If it goes down, release it earlier. The other thing that you need to check is the angle of the knife to the target as it hit. The tip should ocntact the target with an angle of about 15° blade-up (this means that the blade is pointing up, with an angle of 15° off perpendicular to the ground.) This will allow the rotation of the knife to cut deeper into the target, and increase the chance of getting it stuck in whatever you're throwing at. When you throw at different targets, you'll learn to adjust this angle, but for now, just go for a little bit less than head-on. Your friend, or the camera, will be able to tell you if the knife was too far blade-up or blade-down. If it's too far blade-down, step forward a foot at a time until you get it. If it's too far blade-up, step back.
Once you find the distance at which you can hit reliably, try tripling it. If you can maintain a straight line over that distance, the knife should hit and stick. WHy triple it, you ask? The knife should be leaving your hand with the blade facing you. It has to rotate 1/2 turn to stick in the target. If you double the distance, you're hitting the target wtih the handle. If you triple it, you give the knife time for another full rotation.
Let me know how this works out for you, and I can give you some more pointers.
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