This is how I feel: better them than me.
My mind says, "Holy shit that is totally fucking unreal and amazing!" But my heart says, "Meh."
There have been days when I've been surfing waves so big that I feel like the most insignificant speck in the ocean. It's kinda hard to describe the feeling you get when you see a 15 ft wave break in front of you and you're paddling through the flats.. despair I guess would be a good word. And that's how I feel in the ocean. Where I know what to do and have some measure of control.
But when I imagine a 15 ft wave coming and I'm standing on dry land...whew. There's absolutely nothing you can do as the power of the ocean plucks your insignificant little body off the ground and sucks you up.
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