Quote:
Originally Posted by krwlz
Damn, from an engineering standpoint, I'm finding that a lot of what people swear is true in stereo... just isn't. I'm thinking maybe I ought to just work it all out myself!
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And alot of what your reading hear is just as bogus/not true
Run one amp. Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket - why add the complexity of a second 'box' if you dont have to?? Unless your in the mood to buy more cables and trunk jewelry
And a cap?? Unless they are used properly (95% arent) they will do little to improve the true performace of any car stereo. They are not a cure for dimming lights. They will NOT make the amp produce more power. They will NOT make the system 'sound' better. A 1/2 farad cap (for up to 1000W), mounted within 6" or so from the amp, with NO fuse between it and the amp MAY slightly improve some aspects of performance.
You will have very little strain on your factory electrical system with the equipment you have/plan to have. In most cases anything less than 1000 watts (rated power) will be no challenge for your stock charging system. Its that damn physics/engineering babble that looks good on paper but changes drastically when you talk about power, cars, and recorded music.
An amplifier, in a car, rated at 1000W will HARDLY EVER produce near its rated power while listening to MUSIC. Simply hook up a VOM to the output of your amp and measure A/C voltage while listening to music at regular volume levels. Use ohms law to calculate output power. Use either 13.8 (engine on) or 12.5 (engine off) for 'V'. It wont be 100% accurate but you will be very surprised how much power that 1000W amp REALLY produces during average use.