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If you spend any time in the north, I would visit Saqquara(sp?) It's located near the great pyramids in Gaza, but has FAR fewer tourists. The Seraphim is not to be missed! It's a big underground maze like structure full of large black granite burial chambers. It's one of the coolest things I saw when I was there.
I'd pick up the Lonely Planet guide. It has a pretty good description of all of the local sites, and the best times to visit.
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From the day of his birth Gilgamesh was called by name.
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