Let's follow where the dihydrogen monoxide goes after the two hoses screw onto the back of the machine, Mmkay?
First is the inlet solenoid-turns hot and/or cold water on and off based upon machine cycle, level selected, and temp selected.
From there, a hose leads up top for tub filling. There is also a smaller hose coming off the side of the tub heading up to the level selector.
Below the tub is a hose leading to Mr. Pump. He is usually bidirectional (hey-that's his business) which means during the wash cycle, he runs in one direction recirculating tub water via a hose heading back up top, which may or may not interconnect with a bleach dispenser. When it is time to pump the tub empty and spin the load, he runs in the opposite direction and pressurizes the discharge line.
While every manufacturer does things differently, these are the basics. Assuming the machine to be newer than the Truman administration, hose failure from rot is unlikely. Look for a clamp which has come undone, a coupling which pulled loose (unbalanced loads cause this), or a pump failure (housing crack, seal failure). The tub-transmission seal is the least likely candidate.
Don't overlook the level setting hose. On my own machine, over time the calibration drifted to the point that a medium became large, and large was washing the basement floor. An adjustment of the level setting diaphragm resolved that issue.
One final advisory-once you've gone this far in machine disassembly and troubleshooting, check the belt(s)-and I don't mean on yer pants, sport. You'll be quite pissed if the machine drops a belt next month and you get to take it all apart. Again.
May the Schwartz be with you!
