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sixate · 05-05-2003, 02:35 PM

If you get a good head unit with plenty of power you won't need an amp for the mids and highs. I've tried about every head unit and I love Alpine. They have the best stereos. For a sub I'd go with Kicker. That's my sub of choice also. They are the only subs that I haven't blown. JL Audio are great too, but expensive. Kicker Comp-VR would probably be great for what you want. I have three of the Comp-VR 10's in my Civic and they sound great. I can get them at my local stereo shop for $90 each. If you want some dope subs go for the Solo-Baric L5's. They're square woofers which means that 10's have more suface are than a round 12" sub. That will produce more bass because bass is all about the amount of air you move. They cost about $35 more than the other subs though. For an amp I'd also go with Kicker. I've used Kicker amps for the past 8 years and never had a problem. I have a 400 watt Kicker amp on my subs now. I would suggest the KX302.2 for the subs. I just checked a few prices online and it looks like for around $220 -$250 you can get that. Plus the good thing about this amp is it has a built in bass control knob. I bought an equalizer that I really didn't need so I could have that same knob and turn my bass on and off or just keep it low. This amp will give you 300 watts if you get two 8 ohm subs and bridge the amp down to 4 ohm mono. So lets just say you have about $450 spent now and have $300 for a good head unit. I just looked up a head unit too. Check out the Alpine CDA-7892.
Here are the specs of the deck:
<center>50W x 4 MOSFET Amplifier
• Bass Engine® Plus
- Media Xpander™
- 4-Channel Digital Time Correction
- 3-Position 12dB/Octave Crossover
- Subwoofer Level Control with Phase Selector
- Bass Center Frequency and Width Control
- Treble Center Frequency Control
• XM Satellite Radio Ready
• CD-R/RW Playback
• Versatile-Link™ Ready
• KCA-410C Multi-Versatile Link Terminal Compatible
• MaxTune SQ Tuner
• Regulated 1Bit DAC
• 4 Volt Subwoofer PreOut
• 3 PreOuts
• Swing Mechanism with Detachable Face
• RUE-4187 Wireless Remote Control Included</center>

That's not their best unit, but it's pretty good. I'm sure that'll be more than enough. Now all you'll need is a box for the subs and some wires which should cost about another $115 (much less if you build the box yourself). That should cost about $800. I wouldn't replace the factory speakers right away. It will sound better with a better head unit in the car. You can always upgrade those speakers later when you have more cash. Do yourself a favor and hook it all up yourself or have a friend that knows what he's doing help you out. Installation costs are a bitch. Good luck.

05-05-2003, 02:35 PM	#2 (permalink)
sixate Registered User Location: Somewhere in Ohio	If you get a good head unit with plenty of power you won't need an amp for the mids and highs. I've tried about every head unit and I love Alpine. They have the best stereos. For a sub I'd go with Kicker. That's my sub of choice also. They are the only subs that I haven't blown. JL Audio are great too, but expensive. Kicker Comp-VR would probably be great for what you want. I have three of the Comp-VR 10's in my Civic and they sound great. I can get them at my local stereo shop for $90 each. If you want some dope subs go for the Solo-Baric L5's. They're square woofers which means that 10's have more suface are than a round 12" sub. That will produce more bass because bass is all about the amount of air you move. They cost about $35 more than the other subs though. For an amp I'd also go with Kicker. I've used Kicker amps for the past 8 years and never had a problem. I have a 400 watt Kicker amp on my subs now. I would suggest the KX302.2 for the subs. I just checked a few prices online and it looks like for around $220 -$250 you can get that. Plus the good thing about this amp is it has a built in bass control knob. I bought an equalizer that I really didn't need so I could have that same knob and turn my bass on and off or just keep it low. This amp will give you 300 watts if you get two 8 ohm subs and bridge the amp down to 4 ohm mono. So lets just say you have about $450 spent now and have $300 for a good head unit. I just looked up a head unit too. Check out the Alpine CDA-7892. Here are the specs of the deck: <center>50W x 4 MOSFET Amplifier • Bass Engine® Plus - Media Xpander™ - 4-Channel Digital Time Correction - 3-Position 12dB/Octave Crossover - Subwoofer Level Control with Phase Selector - Bass Center Frequency and Width Control - Treble Center Frequency Control • XM Satellite Radio Ready • CD-R/RW Playback • Versatile-Link™ Ready • KCA-410C Multi-Versatile Link Terminal Compatible • MaxTune SQ Tuner • Regulated 1Bit DAC • 4 Volt Subwoofer PreOut • 3 PreOuts • Swing Mechanism with Detachable Face • RUE-4187 Wireless Remote Control Included</center> That's not their best unit, but it's pretty good. I'm sure that'll be more than enough. Now all you'll need is a box for the subs and some wires which should cost about another $115 (much less if you build the box yourself). That should cost about $800. I wouldn't replace the factory speakers right away. It will sound better with a better head unit in the car. You can always upgrade those speakers later when you have more cash. Do yourself a favor and hook it all up yourself or have a friend that knows what he's doing help you out. Installation costs are a bitch. Good luck.