i learned from an "HTML for dummies" book, and
www.w3schools.com
you can learn a lot of things there, and they have example code that you can see the code and output online. then they allow you to mess with the code. excellent learning tool.
but, yeah. HTML is like learning a new language. it'll be harder to *really* learn the code/tags/structure if you use a WYSIWYG application, even if it has an HTML code view... IMHO.