Soldering Question
 

One of the soldering points on the AC jack to my laptop kinda broke (again), so I plugged in my soldering iron to redo the point and my gun ATE UP the solder that was there.

So my question is, can I use the solder I have (60/40) to redo the point? It's 75W coming in, so is that good enough to conduct what it needs to, or do I need a different kind of solder? I already did the point, but haven't plugged it in yet or anything.. figured I'd ask first since it's pretty easy to undo.

I'd take it to the tv shop next to my office where I had it done, but they're closed and I kinda need the laptop by tonight and it seems like a quick easy fix.

Thanks!

It's probably better that you didn't reuse the old solder, since it would've given a bad joint. I would use at least 70/30, and 60/20/20 if you can find some. Just make sure it's rosin core and not acid core, since acid core will eat you board.

Use some soldering wick to soak up all the old solder, then take flux and spread it around the area and then apply new solder...that way you will get a good quality solder joint.

60/40 solder is fine for most all electronics, with the main thing making sure that the parts don't move as the solder cools. 63/37 is the best as it has no plastic reason but probably isn't worth purchasing for this one job that's already done anyway.

The size of the iron and the diameter of the solder are based on the size of the parts being soldered--the metal you are soldering and the solder itself are heat sinks to the solder iron.

If the part is already fixed, you should be okay. Putting down flux before hand does make the parts clean and improve the connections.

It's not that critical
 

I do not think it will matter much. The solder you have will be fine. Just put as much solder on there as possible without going overboard and shorting out any connections. I repair a lot of bad solder connections for comdial and just heating up the original solder that's left behind is not good enough. :D

speaking of soldering. have you guys seen that cold heat commercial? how the heck does that work? they have a website. coldheat looks okay for a soldering noob like me. i had to solder a cell phone connection before and it wasnt a pretty sight. :crazy:

Stompy, I'd be interested in hearing how your adventure turns out. I tried repairing mine and didn't have any luck. I may get take it all apart again and make another attempt, though.

Damned laptop makes me mad.

Um, seems like we're missing soldering 101 here. 60/40 is shorthand for 63/37, unless you have REAL cheap solder that is actually 60% lead. Acid flux is only if you're washing the board later, otherwise rosin flux core is the best.

Uncle Happyboy's tips to SOLDERING

Remember why we need flux! Solder with no flux melts at two different temperatures! so we get lumpy solder joints.

Wipe your tips before you solder, and scrape oxidation also off of your joints and pads. Heat can't flow through the oxidized insulator.

NEVER blow on a joint to set it quicker,
NEVER melt solder onto a joint, INSTEAD heat the joint, apply the solder,
NEVER remelt solder, INSTEAD either add more solder to add flux or paint the flux on and heat the joint until the solder flows.
and the MOST important rule in soldering:

NEVER NEVER NEVER use solder as a physical joint! Take a piece of solder, break it, that's how strong it is. Lame huh? So hook your wires together or some other physical connection or your joint is doomed.

You can use 63%lead, 37%tin solder with rosin core flux, the most luxourious is multi core solder. Silver solder is for other applications like brazing.


Best of luck in those applications!

If you walk into a store and ask for 60/40 solder, that is what you're going to get.

If you walk into a store and ask for 63/37, they'll probably hand you 60/40 and say this is all they have and it's close enough. And for most things, it is close enough. But 63/37 is different than 60/40 and will be marked as 63/37.

http://www.kester.com/en-us/technical/alloy.aspx