How to replace the brake disc pads on your 1998 Ford Taurus
 

This is a tutorial showing you how to perform a brake job and replace the disc brake pads on your domestic automobile. The reference vehicle in question is a 3rd Generation Ford Taurus, but virtually any domestic automobile manufactured in the last 20 years with disc brakes will have a similar setup.

To begin, you will need the following:

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1. Manual
2. Disc brake cylinder tool (more on this below)
3. Red thread lock
4. Replacement disc brake pads ($30+ at NAPA or similar auto store)
5. Socket tool set
6. Brake parts cleaner (not pictured)

Step 1 - Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Be sure to put a chock behind the rear wheel, apply the parking brake, and work on only one side of the vehicle at a time.

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Step 2 - Inspect the brake assembly. Clean thoroughly with brake parts cleaner and allow to air dry.

Step 3 - Remove the disc brake frame assembly. It is secured by two bolts at the top and bottom of the assembly.

Top -
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Bottom -
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Step 4 - Once the bolts have been removed you can gently pull off the brake cylinder. It is not necessary to remove the brake fluid lines, just be sure not to get them tangled.

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Step 5 - Using the brake disc cylinder tool, gently push the cylinder back into its socket until it is flush with the rubber gasket.

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Step 6 - Replace the old brake pads with the new clean pads.

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Step 7 - Reinstall the brake disc cylinder. If it sticks, you may need to push the cylinder back further.

Step 8 - Reinstallation of remaining parts is the opposite of removal. I suggest you apply a very SMALL coat of threadlocker to the assembly bolts before reinstallation.

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Step 9 - Be sure to pump your brakes several times before putting it in gear and driving away to ensure the cylinder has returned to its proper position.

Enjoy your new brake pads. Average brake pad life varies considerably depending on model and driving habits, but you should check them for damage or excessive wear at least once per year.

Nice writeup, Master_Shake. I hope it gives people the courage to get a little more hands-on with their cars...save money and learn how it works. It almost makes me want to go out and buy a 1998 Ford Taurus.

Very good. Brakes are not that bad of job for the do it yourselfer. As fuel prices continue to rise, vehicle owners would be well served to learn how to do much of this maintenance work themselves.

But one thing I would recommend is having the rotors turned when doing this. A fresh surface on the rotors will provide better stopping usually with less noise and prolong the life of the pads. Although I will admit that I've had old beaters that I've replaced the pads on before when the rotors were not worn very badly.

Yup, this kind of stuff is great. The one thing that I do different with my cars, is that to push the piston back in to the caliper, I use a C-Clamp, and the old pad. This works better, in my opinion, for those cars with multi-piston calipers like the front of my Olds & Volvo.

hopefully you've replaced the pads before the rotors get messed up!
you can only get the rotors turned a few times before they get too thin...

I'd only turn my rotors if the surface was damaged, or they were warped.


good guide... pretty similar on my explorer, except I have to hammer out some pins instead of of two bolts... the bolts sound easier...

and I was always told to keep the old pad in place and press against it with the cylinder too, so your not pressing directly on one part of the cylinder, and the force is distributed around the whole thing, some cylinders are ceramic and can chip.

It should probably be noted for beginners that 1) a good set of tools is worth there weight in gold, 2) don't be afraid to use a bit of elbow grease and that 3) patience is truly a virtue when working on your car.

Great pictures though in the OP and a nice, simple write-up.

Man, what an excellent post! Well done.

I used a large C-clamp to press the cylinder back, simply because I don't have the brake tool shown.

Really with a little knowledge, a few basic hand tools, an OBDII code reader and an Internet connection most people could solve most issues themselves.

My brother doesn't do any of his own maintenance, he's been in the restaurant business forever. I mentioned at a basketball game one day I'd banged my hand up changing my oil. He said he didn't do any of that stuff always takes it to the dealership. I thought "Dealership!?! Holy crap, that's the last place I'd take my truck." He went on to explain how during the last tune-up they "found a bunch of stuff that needed done, ended up being over $1500." I bet they found stuff alright, in your wallet. I didn't say anything.

Good point.

I agree with JStrider. If the rotors are undamaged and not warped, it is silly to turn them, as turning them removes metal, making the rotors thinner and therefore more prone to warping.

Really, I don't turn 'em at all. They're, what, $20? Just put new ones on if you need 'em.

25 years ago I'd of had them turned if they weren't smooth to the touch. And I'd lay a straight edge across them looking for warping. But any more every time I've taken a set in to have them turned the shop either wants as much or more then new ones or they say there too far gone to be turned. So, yeah I just buy new.

Last set I bought was for a 97' Ford F-150 and I think I paid about $90 for the set at the local Napa store.