Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community - Proper Stopping With Manual?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by gal

Stick driving isn't that complicated. You can switch from any gear to another, and you don't have to put it in neutral. Ever. Stopping at a red light, I always have the clutch fully depressed. Holding the clutch in doesn't wear the clutch at all since the discs in the clutch are not in contact.

When you're stopping, just break and clutch at the same time. If you're slowing down to park, put it in first to prevent runaway. If you're slowing down to say 10 mph, you break/clutch, shift to 2nd and release the clutch when you're going slow enough.

Being a clutch-rider is going to wear it down. I am kind of one and my last clutch cost me $900.
There's no reason at all to hold the clutch in when stopped and if on a flat road, you don't even need to hold the brake down-a plus in manual shifting (automatics start to go the second you let off the brake).
It's much easier coming to a stop to put it in neutral and brake down. The only time you really need to keep the clutch engaged is on a hill. In those cases, I'm a clutch/gas/brake balancer.

I brake until my revs are below 1000 (on my 1.6 petrol), then either change into first gear if i need to make a getaway soon and push down the clutch, or go to neutral and bring the clutch up to rest my leg if i'm not going anywhere for a while. I do play with my clutch just before stopping to get the smoothest stop, instead of a bit of a jolt, but that comes from experience with your car.

The way i look at it is all the time you havn't got the clutch down and your braking, your saving fuel, until you need to change gear because your about to stall.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shakran

OK. You're wrong, but we'll agree to disagree.

Yes, that would be why I said EXCEPT for first gear we don't need synchros.

Nice try, but I'm gonna call you out here. To be quite frank, an experienced mechanic would realize that moving parts wear. If you put more strain on a moving part it will wear faster. Therefore if you require the synchros to do more work, they will wear faster. If you take work away from the synchros and do it manually, they will wear slower. It doesn't get much simpler than that.

I will end my postings here... Call me "out" all you want...now sure exactly what you mean. But I have been working on transmissions for most of my life, and have extensive experience and knowledge in the areas of manual and automatics. We disagree, yes, but your statement that I am "Wrong" is disrespectfull, and not called for. Just because YOU do not agree with my experience, doesn't mean you can generically call me wrong. If I am so wrong, why have I been able to successfully earn a living doing what I have been doing for all these years? The numbers do not lie. I back every one of my statements with personal EXPERIENCE, not information from 3rd parties. If you want to say you disagree, fine, but lets leave it at that, for I have never stated in ANY of my posts that you, or anyone else was "wrong", just that I disagree.:thumbsup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by ngdawg

You may be right about the wear, as I see some others mention too. I've been driving a manual all my life (9 years in a country where 90% drive stick), and all this neutral business is new to me. I kinda have problems believing that
clutch-in/neutral/clutch-out/break, stop; clutch-in/1st/clutch-out
results in less clutch wear than
clutch-in/break/1st, stop; clutch-out

I do live in a hilly area though.. If there is some wear from flat road clutching, it can't contribute much compared to stopping and parking in these hills.