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#1 (permalink) |
Overreactor
Location: South Ca'lina
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how do i get rid of this crabgrass???
My yard is half bermuda, half crabgrass, and I'm afraid that the bermuda is slowly losing. How can I get rid of the crabgrass? Then, how can I stimulate the bermuda to take over where the crabgrass was?
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#2 (permalink) |
pow!
Location: NorCal
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Go to your local hardware store. There are all kinds of sprays and whatnot that you can buy. A word of advice - follow the directions.
I used a crabgrass-killer spray successfully a few times. I had a GREAT front lawn, and every once in while the crabgrass invaded and I'd beat it back. But one day I got sloppy about mixing the crabgrass-killing concentrate with water. I made it a bit too strong, and killed large areas of my formerly-perfect lawn along with the acursed crabgrass. It looked like the Ho Chi Mihn Trail after a year of Agent Orange. It was deader than last year's bird-nest. Dead. Dead. Dead. I'm still pissed off about that.
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Ass, gas or grass. Nobody rides for free. |
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#3 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: Canada
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I know a guy who suggests the following.
1: Mow the lawn really short. 2: Water it so it starts growing good. 3: Once the crab grass has grown up faster than the lawn grass and is clearly taller... use a sock pulled over a hockey stick and dipped in roundup, and swipe it (walking backwards to avoid foot prints) on only the taller crab-grass. He claims it works good. |
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#4 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: P.R. Mass.
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I used a Dragon brand post-emergent for a few years that contained a chemical branded 'Trimec' that did a good job in a garden sprayer. Last year I switched to a new Bayer (yes, the same Bayer that makes aspirin) post-emergent concentrate that works incredibly well. I have a tall fescue blend lawn and mixed it to be a bit stronger than recommended and sprayed it on trouble areas. It left the grass completely untouched, but within 3 days all the crabgrass was yellowing. I have had experiences clike Clavus' where a bad mix does bad things to the stuff you want to keep - but this Bayer Advanced 'lawn weed killer' was really user friendly.
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#7 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: Midwest
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havn't trid the hockey stick method but sounds possible (and would probably give the neighbors something good to talk about also) this fall when the temps are cooler and the crabgrass stops growing, reseed heavily and rake in good (tear out as much crabgrass as possible) and get the new stuff started. It will make it through the winter and then in early spring put down pre-emergent. Even better they make a pre-emergent that won't harm new growth and you can reseed again the spots that didn't take in the fall. The first summer it won't be beautiful but it will by the next, just keep putting down the preemergent every spring
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#9 (permalink) |
Psycho
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From what I've been told, there's no product that can kill crab grass and not the good grass. Although, from some of the posts above, I guess there are products. I use a pre-emergent in the spring. My lawn usually looks good until about midway through the summer. Then the crab grass starts to appear. By the end of the summer, parts of my lawn are covered with crab grass.
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#11 (permalink) | |
Psycho
Location: Initech, Iowa
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Quote:
I was really pissed too. Took two years to get it back to looking good again... |
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#12 (permalink) |
Invisible
Location: tentative, at best
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Concentrate on your grass - Fertilize it, and make sure it gets enough water and sunlight.
Healthy bermuda should crowd out and out-compete the crabgrass for water and nutrients. Bermuda is a hardy grass - but its Achilles heel is sunlight - it needs a lot, and doesn't do well in shade.
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If you want to avoid 95% of internet spelling errors: "If your ridiculous pants are too loose, you're definitely going to lose them. Tell your two loser friends over there that they're going to lose theirs, too." It won't hurt your fashion sense, either. |
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Tags |
crabgrass, rid |
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