DIY driveways - Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community

vector_1979 · 02-19-2004, 09:09 AM

Having taken the luxury of buying my own house late last year, I want to extend my driveway using block paving.

Anyone out there had any previous experience of laying brick paved driveways or paths.

I've been told I need to dig about 200mm. Fill up 100mm with rubble and then about another 60mm of grit sand. Does it need compacting with a machine? Will probably only need to park a car with a max weight of 1400kg.

Have also been told to set outer bricks in cement.

Anyone got any hints and tips on this, or know any good links for techniques or suppliers of materials?

onetime2 · 02-19-2004, 10:52 AM

Yep, done it quite a bit.

Rather than sand I would use stone dust. It's basically ground up stone that compacts much better than sand. I would recommend using a compactor on every layer you put down from the coarse gravel on up to the pavers themselves. Get the vibratory kind rather than the jumping jack kind. When you lay the pavers, sweep sand in between the cracks of the pavers and run the vibratory compactor over the top. The sand will disappear down into the cracks, so keep adding more until it doesn't disappear any more. This sand locks the pavers in place.

You don't necessarily need to concrete the ends of the driveway. In fact I would just use some metal landscape edging that can be held in place by spikes.

kwoodmex · 02-19-2004, 12:29 PM

That's pretty much the way to do it, it can't be explained any better than that.

just to give you a general idea you can check this out: HGTV Paver Tutorial

Probably any one of those home improvement sites can give you some guidlines and tips.

jbrooks544 · 02-19-2004, 01:07 PM

I use a purpose-made plastic edge. I buy it at my local drywall/masonry supply place. I would go to one of these places. Find it in the yellow pages under "Masonry Equipment & Supplies". They will have all the pavers and edging, etc. for you. If you use brick-shaped pavers then get one of those brick carrying tools. You can pick up and easily carry about 7 bricks at a time. I like the plastic edge. You can use it on curves or straight runs. You put it on after laying bricks, before sanding and compacting over the top of the bricks. It stops grass from growing in from edge and stops the pavers from spreading. weight of car pushes down on pavers and makes them want to spread out unless you have a nice spiked edge.

remove ALL organic matial and top soil from under the area. Poor draining soil, use deeper bed and more gravel (sharp gravel not river rounded). Compact, compact compact. Keep special mind of not having low dip spots, as puddles will form.

onetime2 · 02-20-2004, 05:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jbrooks544
I like the plastic edge. You can use it on curves or straight runs. You put it on after laying bricks, before sanding and compacting over the top of the bricks. It stops grass from growing in from edge and stops the pavers from spreading. weight of car pushes down on pavers and makes them want to spread out unless you have a nice spiked edge.

I've used the plastic but find that it breaks down from sunlight. When using it for driveways, there's also a tendency for a driver to go over the edge and plastic just doesn't hold up as well as the metal, IMO. The metal edge can be run in curves, too.

jbrooks544 · 02-20-2004, 07:28 AM

The plastic ede I use only come up about 3/4 of the height of the brick - there is nothing to break b/c it doesn't stick up. It is purpose built for paver edging. You are right - the regular plastic bed-lining edging would stick up and be too weak. I used something like this:
http://www.laurelblock.com/brick_stop.html

But the stuff I used had flanges under the brick too, which I liked. Slipped it under and spiked after setting all.

onetime2 · 02-20-2004, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jbrooks544
The plastic ede I use only come up about 3/4 of the height of the brick - there is nothing to break b/c it doesn't stick up. It is purpose built for paver edging. You are right - the regular plastic bed-lining edging would stick up and be too weak. I used something like this:
http://www.laurelblock.com/brick_stop.html

But the stuff I used had flanges under the brick too, which I liked. Slipped it under and spiked after setting all.

Even that, when it gets warped in the sun and goes through some heating/cooling cycles can have problems. Plastic just isn't permanent enough for me. Metal will eventually rust but it takes a loooong time.

vector_1979 · 02-20-2004, 09:54 AM

Cheers guys.

Fortunately, I only have a small rectangular driveway so have no real need for curves, although they do add a touch of class to a driveway/path way.

floydthebarber · 02-21-2004, 08:54 PM

ummm...what onetime2 said ^^^^

02-19-2004, 09:09 AM	#1 (permalink)
vector_1979 Insane Location: In a Caddy Shack	DIY driveways Having taken the luxury of buying my own house late last year, I want to extend my driveway using block paving. Anyone out there had any previous experience of laying brick paved driveways or paths. I've been told I need to dig about 200mm. Fill up 100mm with rubble and then about another 60mm of grit sand. Does it need compacting with a machine? Will probably only need to park a car with a max weight of 1400kg. Have also been told to set outer bricks in cement. Anyone got any hints and tips on this, or know any good links for techniques or suppliers of materials? __________________ ------------------------------------------------ Tip: Never do your shoe lace up in a revolving door

02-19-2004, 10:52 AM	#2 (permalink)
onetime2 Junkie Location: NJ	Yep, done it quite a bit. Rather than sand I would use stone dust. It's basically ground up stone that compacts much better than sand. I would recommend using a compactor on every layer you put down from the coarse gravel on up to the pavers themselves. Get the vibratory kind rather than the jumping jack kind. When you lay the pavers, sweep sand in between the cracks of the pavers and run the vibratory compactor over the top. The sand will disappear down into the cracks, so keep adding more until it doesn't disappear any more. This sand locks the pavers in place. You don't necessarily need to concrete the ends of the driveway. In fact I would just use some metal landscape edging that can be held in place by spikes. __________________ Strive to be more curious than ignorant.

02-20-2004, 09:54 AM	#8 (permalink)
vector_1979 Insane Location: In a Caddy Shack	Cheers guys. Fortunately, I only have a small rectangular driveway so have no real need for curves, although they do add a touch of class to a driveway/path way. __________________ ------------------------------------------------ Tip: Never do your shoe lace up in a revolving door

02-21-2004, 08:54 PM	#9 (permalink)
floydthebarber Insane Location: ?	ummm...what onetime2 said ^^^^ __________________ wish you were here

02-19-2004, 12:29 PM	#3 (permalink)
kwoodmex Crazy	That's pretty much the way to do it, it can't be explained any better than that. just to give you a general idea you can check this out: HGTV Paver Tutorial Probably any one of those home improvement sites can give you some guidlines and tips.

02-19-2004, 01:07 PM	#4 (permalink)
jbrooks544 Addict	I use a purpose-made plastic edge. I buy it at my local drywall/masonry supply place. I would go to one of these places. Find it in the yellow pages under "Masonry Equipment & Supplies". They will have all the pavers and edging, etc. for you. If you use brick-shaped pavers then get one of those brick carrying tools. You can pick up and easily carry about 7 bricks at a time. I like the plastic edge. You can use it on curves or straight runs. You put it on after laying bricks, before sanding and compacting over the top of the bricks. It stops grass from growing in from edge and stops the pavers from spreading. weight of car pushes down on pavers and makes them want to spread out unless you have a nice spiked edge. remove ALL organic matial and top soil from under the area. Poor draining soil, use deeper bed and more gravel (sharp gravel not river rounded). Compact, compact compact. Keep special mind of not having low dip spots, as puddles will form.

02-20-2004, 07:28 AM	#6 (permalink)
jbrooks544 Addict	The plastic ede I use only come up about 3/4 of the height of the brick - there is nothing to break b/c it doesn't stick up. It is purpose built for paver edging. You are right - the regular plastic bed-lining edging would stick up and be too weak. I used something like this: http://www.laurelblock.com/brick_stop.html But the stuff I used had flanges under the brick too, which I liked. Slipped it under and spiked after setting all.