oil pan and the lock tight on it
 

Pulled up to the quick lube cuz i was hot and lazy after work the other day.. finally got the car to 3k miles (frist oil change for it.. used car) dude said he would do it cuz the bolt was stuck..

thats ok i said i'd get it..

i go to wal-mart and buy a hand torch to heat up the bolt to unseize it.. it should work right.. nope

almost rounded the bolt .. ended up going over to my friend that works at the ford dealership in town... we jacked up the car .. worked on the bolt for 3 sec and he says.. no way dude.. someone put lock tight on it and screwed it in..

at the time i had no clue what it was.. but now i do..

who the fuck puts lock tight on a bolt on the oil pan??!!??

my only guess is who ever did it.. messed up the threads on the pan and put it on to quick fix it..

my only option i know of is drop the exhaust and pull the 14 bolts on the oil pan..

1994 5 speed ford escort.. 1.9 engine fule injected

now what do i do once its off.. go to a junk yard and get a bottom oil pan? or shear off the head of the bolt and drill it out and retap?

sigh.. im going nutz :hmm:

jeez, whoever owned your car last sure was a dipshit.
If you can get a pan at a junkyard, that would be the way to go, just make sure you dont get a dented one.
Ashton's method works too, but by pumping up the oil, you dont remove as much of the sludge as you would if you let it drain out the bottom. Probably not a good idea if your car is going to be a daily driver.
you could also try drilling it out and retapping, just make sure you have a little oil in the pan befor you drill. spilled oil is a lot bettert than metal flakes all over your crank and cylinders.
goodluck

humm could you drill a new hole and tap it .. somewhere else on the pan or is the pan to thin to try this?

A good mechanic should be able to drill the bolt out, and rethread your oil pan for about fifty dollars, I'm guessing.

I stripped the threads out of my oil pan once and it was an easy fix. I also completely rounded the screw once and my mechanic took care of that no problem.

There is a tool, it is a socket but instead of haveing a design to grip the bolt head, it has teeth that chew into the metal, I imagine it would work. Is the car bought from a dealership? If so go back and bitch, hell, if you bought froma person go back and bitch.

blue, red, and green locktight, Green is fucking evil! And hard to find.

I also would advise against the handpump method.

I would either drill and retap, or, call a wreckers and see if you can get a new oilpan at a decent price.

yeah im gonna drop the oil pan and replace it with another.. btw what liquid goo should i use with the gaskit? that orange goo or the blue goo.. uh that stuff you use on gaskits to seal them better.. (and no lock tight lol)

any permatex (or other brand) gasket sealer will do, just make sure you read the tube and make sure it is compatible with oil. Also, make sure you clean and degrease the surfaces really well otherwise the sealer will not stick. Starting fluid works very well as a quick-drying degreaser.

Did you buy the car from a dealership or a person? If from a dealership you should take a look at your paper work. Most dealerships change the oil before they give you the car. If there is anything that says they did, you might be able to catch them in a breach of contract and get them to pay for the new oil pan or take the car back.

If you bought directly from a person they certainly would have known about it. If they provided any assurance of a good maintenence record you may have a claim that would hold up in small claims court.

Also check to see if your state has lemon laws.

hmm i will do that.. although its a used car dealership here in town.. low key but my parents have bought from them for years..

another option is this: you should be able to find a rubber drain plug from some auto parts store or another (we used to carry them at the one I worked at). they are used when an oil pan's drain plug threads are stripped out. you shove the thing in the hole, then tighten the wingnut on the end that sticks out. this in turn pulls the other end towards you, causing the rubber in between to expand from the pressure. eventually it expands enough to seal the hole.

this is usually considered a temporary fix, however I've heard from some customers that they work great and dont leak. on the other hand, they have to be replaced about evry 3rd or 4th oil change, as the rubber begins to rip.

if you have trouble finding the oil pan, you might consider this as a temporary alternative so you can change the oil while waiting to find the pan.

also, in your case, since you cant get the old plug out, you can drill a new hole near it and use this to plug it. they come in several sizes.

I'd also be willing to bet that a good pipe wrench will take tha sucker out, though as mentioned there is a slight chance it could rip the pan too.

If you drill it out, you can get a oversized self-tapping plug from NAPA, Auto-Zone, or wherever you get your car parts.

Rubber plugs suck, they can pop out & ruin your engine quickly.If your family has used the same dealer before, chances are he'll make good on the repairs to avoid bad publicity. Usually a small place relies on word of mouth,besides he'll have better access to used parts and a cheap mechanic than you would. I'd insist on replacing the pan.

My first thought would be to drill out a larger size hole (carefully) if that area is still pretty straight and use use a bigger plug (I am sure auto part stores have a lot of diff sizes). Replacing an oil pan sounds liek a pain in the butt.

try to drill that plug out, if not then just go with a new oil pan, that'd be the best way, you could always try using a huge cheater bar to give u somemore torque, that might help