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#1 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: Oh God, the rain!
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Heatfsink fan question
Hello all. I think there is a problem with my heatsink. right now my computer idles at 60C with my cpu fan running 3800rpm and even if I touch the heatsink underload it is not hot at all. When I first put my computer together I only used the stock thermal pad that was attached to the bottom of the heatsink. If took the thermal pad off and put some arctic silver paste on would that give me way better temps?
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#2 (permalink) |
Knight of the Old Republic
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
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It'd probably lower it 3-5 degrees at least. Thermal pads suck ass! Any type of thermal paste will do better than the pad. Good luck getting it off.
![]() -Lasereth
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#3 (permalink) |
42, baby!
Location: The Netherlands
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If it's an Athlon, that's a normal temperature. If it's a modern P4, it's way too hot.
The cooler isn't supposed to be hot at all. The fan should move air around it fast enough to remove the excess heat. If you're going to use Arctic silver, remove the old thermal pad with a soft cloth, and preferably some alcohol-based solvent (careful what you pick, though!). Then put on the silver. It should shave off some degrees, depending on the age and quality of your thermal pad. A Better solution would be a better cooler. (I used only the soft cloth/toilet paper, and it still gave me a drop in temperature. The alcohol is used to remove the last bits of thermal grease from minite holes in the cooler.) Last edited by Dragonlich; 07-13-2004 at 11:12 AM.. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
Knight of the Old Republic
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
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Quote:
-Lasereth
__________________
"A Darwinian attacks his theory, seeking to find flaws. An ID believer defends his theory, seeking to conceal flaws." -Roger Ebert |
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#5 (permalink) | |
42, baby!
Location: The Netherlands
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At full load, I have yet to get it to go over 55C. (Make that 50 with the new zalman) So there! ![]() |
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#6 (permalink) |
Knight of the Old Republic
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
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Well, in all honesty, the ambient temperature of the room is the major factor in how hot your processor is. In my college room at ASU, my processor runs at 30-35 celsius during the winter and 40-45 celsius during the hotter months (we have to leave the window open for climate control
![]() -Lasereth
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"A Darwinian attacks his theory, seeking to find flaws. An ID believer defends his theory, seeking to conceal flaws." -Roger Ebert |
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#7 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: Oh God, the rain!
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Woops. I forgot to say that I have a Xp 2500. What would be the best cooling solution if I wanted to lets say overclock my 2500 to a 3200. I have actually done this and it worked but I was scared of the temps so I stopped.
Last edited by Asuka{eve}; 07-13-2004 at 12:24 PM.. |
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#9 (permalink) |
Holy Knight of The Alliance
Location: Stormwind, The Eastern Kingdoms, Azeroth
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Mwahaha, my CPU hits a lovely 27 C at idle, and 37C at load. All that acheived using just the stock cooler, and not using artic silver.
EDIT: I failed to mention that my CPU is a Northwood 2.4B.
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What do you say to one last showdown? - Ocelot, Metal Gear Solid 3 The password is "Who are the Patriots?" and "La-Li-Lu-Le-Lo." "La-Li-Lu-Le-Lo." Gotcha. - The Colonel and Snake, Metal Gear Solid 3 Last edited by bltzkriegmcanon; 07-13-2004 at 05:27 PM.. |
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#11 (permalink) |
Canadian Beer Ambassador
Location: Cumming, GA
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Gentlemen.. Must remember the chip, and even the version of the chip make huge differences.
A 2.4 Prescott will run hotter than a 3.0 Northwood. I have a 3.4 Northwood HT I am about to slap arctic 5 and an Aero 4 on. IC7-Max3 board.. Currently running pad and stock. Idle: 44c (31c actual) Load: Dual instances of Prime 95 for 40 mins.. 61c (48c actual) However, the Abit line of P4 boards measure your temperature between 9 and 13 degrees warmer than it really is. I haven't adjusted the above temperatures for the 13 degrees. As Lazereth said, ambient is a large factor also. If Asuka{eve}is serious about lowering that temp (which depending on the proc might not be all that hot.. P3.2 EE's can hit those temps.. on idle) there are some steps I would take. 1) Is your board abit? If so, knock 9 degrees off to be safe, and 13 on the high side. That will be your actual temps. 2) Get rid of the stock sink and fan. CAREFULLY. Read up if you don't know what you are doing. Then read more. Depending on how much you want to spend (Aero 4 has a good price and performance $35 if you search) and SP-94 is insane for about $65 with a Vantec Tornado fan. 3) Lower the ambient temperature if it is possible. If not, upgrade your case fans. You will have to deal with noise though.. Asuka{eve} I am working on mine in the next 24 hours. I will let you know.
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#12 (permalink) | ||
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Location: Oh God, the rain!
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Akasa Silver Mountain II heatsink http://www.plycon.com/cpuc/ak_slvmnt2.htm Delta FFB0612EHE http://www.plycon.com/fans/delta50.htm This 60mm fan is rated at 50 cfm which I assume is really good but I dont know how loud 55db is. I heard once that a normal conversation was 60db. |
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#13 (permalink) |
Canadian Beer Ambassador
Location: Cumming, GA
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Asuka{eve}
I am assuming you have an AMD processor, so here is a reference guide I used (obviously I used the Intel version) to help pick out a heatsink. http://www.overclockers.com/articles373/socketA.asp Depending on what you want to spend, you can go right up to some pretty sick cooling. I posted earlier in the thread when I was looking at water cooling, but chose against that method at this time. Thermalright and Swiftech seem to be the only ones in the top ten, so you shouldn't go wrong with any of those. I put a Coolermaster Aero 4 with AS5 on a new system last night, but I didn't put the stock system on it to test the results. Here are the results I did get: Stock 2.4 temps: Idle: 51c Load: 56c Overclocked from 2.4 to 2.8 Idle: 53c Load: 59c I don't plan on going any higher with the overclock due to the temperatures, but again these are reading about 9-13 degrees higher than they really are. This is a 2.4 Prescott, so they are hot as hell anyways. As you can see, the after market cooling really does help. If I had tried this with stock heatsink and "pad", I assume I would have had stock temps matching my OC temps.
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Take Off Eh! ![]() Last edited by theburner; 07-14-2004 at 04:39 AM.. |
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#14 (permalink) | ||
Knight of the Old Republic
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
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Secondly, I suggest with the utmost concern that the Thermaltake Silent Boost is the best Athlon XP CPU HSF out there. I shit you not when I say that it's as quiet as a GlobalWIN Super Silent (can't hear it basically) and cools better than water cooling kits. It actually cooled better than an SLK-900U with a Tornado fan according to various tests. At $25-$30, I'd hit it up 100%. -Lasereth
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"A Darwinian attacks his theory, seeking to find flaws. An ID believer defends his theory, seeking to conceal flaws." -Roger Ebert |
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#15 (permalink) |
Canadian Beer Ambassador
Location: Cumming, GA
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Lasereth..
There was a great article linked to the Abit forums where a website actually machined a hole in a heatsink to drop a temp probe right above the cpu die. The only did it for ASUS and Abit, but the results were pretty scary. Abit were indeed 9-13c below the listed temps, but Asus showed 5c COOLER than it actually was. Wonder how many people pushed their system only to damage their cpus. Personally, I would rather have my MOBO list the temp as high than low! ![]()
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#17 (permalink) |
Canadian Beer Ambassador
Location: Cumming, GA
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Asuka{eve}..
Here you go. http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/cont..._Rev04_ENG.pdf Take that link, and you will see the absolute TOP end of your proc is 80c. Would I run it anywhere near that, hell no. However, chances are unless you have mounted the heatsink incorrectly you are fine. Would I OC that system? Not a chance. If you really are concerned about it go get that sink Lasereth mentioned. He knows his shit. BTW, Motherboard monitor is just using the same multiplier your mobo monitor is, so it should be almost identical in temperature readings. Is it correct? Who knows.
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#19 (permalink) |
Holy Knight of The Alliance
Location: Stormwind, The Eastern Kingdoms, Azeroth
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I suggest you take that heat sink off, take a good look at the amount of thermal paste that's on there (if you have such), then make sure that contact is being made with the CPU. Do it yourself, attaching a HSF isn't that hard (even with an AMD).
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What do you say to one last showdown? - Ocelot, Metal Gear Solid 3 The password is "Who are the Patriots?" and "La-Li-Lu-Le-Lo." "La-Li-Lu-Le-Lo." Gotcha. - The Colonel and Snake, Metal Gear Solid 3 |
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#20 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: Oh God, the rain!
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I went and got a thermal take silent boost. When I removed the stock fan and removed it. The original thermal paste looked..fried and baked . When I used my fingernail to take off some the paste chipped off. I also got some artic silver 5 so I put a little bit on the die and put the thermaltake on. At first the new fan wouldn't fit
![]() ![]() ![]() EDIT: Hey guys me again. I just overclocked my 2500xp barton to 3200 11x mult and 202fsb and 66 mhz agp. With WCPUID it says I am at 2230mhz. Right now my temp is 52C and Im just web surfing. I come back later and tell how my new comp feels. Another update: I just had a long session of farcry my mbm now reads 56C. Which I believe is much lower. So how happy am I now? I am very very happy. the fan is much quieter than my last one so that is also nice. During my farcry game play I still encountered areas where my computer froze up. I am not sure if I am right but I put the blame on my ram. Now that I am at 3200 some people have said that I need ram that is a similar speed. I only have generic 333mhz. bltzkriegmcanon suggested Kingston HyperX 184 Pin 512MB DDR PC-3200 in one of my previous posts. Is this the ram to go for If I need it?? http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProduc...144-112&depa=1 Last edited by Asuka{eve}; 07-14-2004 at 03:33 PM.. |
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fan, heatfsink, question |
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