1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. We've had very few donations over the year. I'm going to be short soon as some personal things are keeping me from putting up the money. If you have something small to contribute it's greatly appreciated. Please put your screen name as well so that I can give you credit. Click here: Donations
    Dismiss Notice

Tilted Sartorialism - The Menswear Thread

Discussion in 'Tilted Life and Sexuality' started by Shadowex3, Dec 24, 2014.

  1. Plan9

    Plan9 Rock 'n Roll

    Location:
    Earth
    That's weird considering most men would rather be athletes than look like department store mannequins.

    And I say that as a guy that is built a lot like one.
     
  2. omega

    omega Very Tilted

    I'm sure kirstang could outrun me. And I know I could lift more weight than him. He is going to look better in a suit. This wasn't a discussion about what is the better build. And as fat as I am right now, I don't want to go there.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  3. snowy

    snowy so kawaii Staff Member

    I love men of all builds in suits, so long as they don't look like they're being choked.
     
  4. Herculite

    Herculite Very Tilted

    Key here is former athletes. As in they got fat, and in football some are pretty fat these days to start with, and back then many on roids as well.

    They don't look as good in a suit because they are fat.

    Take away the money and you are better off looking like a store mannequin when it comes to younger women. Trust me on this one :p
     
  5. Plan9

    Plan9 Rock 'n Roll

    Location:
    Earth
    Relevant: Visual Comparison of Tie Knots

    Which one do you suckas use?

    Also: Be more fancy.

    ...

    Here's my contribution to this thread before it gets threadjacked by whatever droll metrosexual male self-loathing is going on:


    Tie is always in a full Windsor (a traditional favorite modern gorget; long and even), shoes are always square toe Oxfords (I have toes, FFS) with laces (never wear dress shoes you can't run like Tom Cruise in). I like slim fit stuff because of my build.

    I'm really liking the move toward using outdoor tech-y stretch fabrics in suits / dress shirts. Awesomesauce for extended comfort such as hellish international travel and those bullshit all-day meetings where nobody really does much of anything.

    As gauche as it is, I often find myself drawn toward loud, solid-color dress shirts. Blue, red, yellow. The kind white people look ridiculous in. Maybe it's my inner Huey Lewis. I'm not big on patterns, though; they look like wait staff uniforms.

    So, basically, it's either a white shirt or a black shirt with appropriate tie.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2014
    • Like Like x 1
  6. Lindy

    Lindy Moderator Staff Member

    Location:
    Nebraska
    Where I grew up it's not too uncommon to see a man dressed up in a suit wearing boots.

    Also, athletes don't have to be the hulking NFL/NBA guys we first think of. Athletes can be wrestlers, swimmers, gymnasts, etc. that are well under six feet and 200 pounds. They can look great in a suit, just like @kirstang.:)

    But I, for one, don't think that the clothes make the man. I've know enough incompetent suits.

    The real difference between a guy and a guy in a nice suit? About $1000 give or take.:rolleyes:
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. Shadowex3

    Shadowex3 Very Tilted

    I only ever wear a half or tight full windsor, depending on the tie, and round toed oxfords or derbys. Square toed shoes just look wrong on me, like clown shoes. Of course wherever I can I usually cheat on the shoes ayway by polishing up some combat boots and wearing those instead. Not something I'd do at an actual formal function but for daily wear it's a workable bluff. Allen Edmonds used to be one of the gold standards in their price range but sadly they're not wholly made in America anymore. Ofc since there's a master shoemaker on styleform discussions tend to get a little... slanted... given that he and his acolytes consider everything that isn't handmade and hand stitched complete trash.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  8. Levite

    Levite Levitical Yet Funky

    Location:
    The Windy City
    Can I just say I've never ever heard of half those tie knots, and some of them terrify me. I think I'm just not that into bondage.

    I use a simple knot. It's all I am capable of tying. I couldn't tie a tie at all until I was 27. My dad tried to teach me and failed; my stepdad tried to teach me and failed. My granddad, my uncle, my cousin all tried to teach me and failed. They all tried teaching me Windsor, Half-Windsor, Albert, or Four-In-Hand. I finally learned when a gay coworker took pity on me and taught me the simple knot.
     
  9. Charlatan

    Charlatan sous les pavés, la plage

    Location:
    Temasek
    I find full Windsor knots produce a knot that is way too big and too symmetrical. James Bond wears four in hand knots and that's good enough for me.

    I will use a half Windsor or a Prince Albert if my tie is too long and I need to use up some of the length.
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2014
  10. Charlatan

    Charlatan sous les pavés, la plage

    Location:
    Temasek
    Duplicate.
     
  11. rogue49

    rogue49 Tech Kung Fu Artist Staff Member

    Location:
    Baltimore/DC
    Younger women like skinnier men like younger men like skinnier women. (comes with the age...and some people never trend out of it)
    Older men have some more heft as older women have more curves.

    You have to compensate for both as you age...but this doesn't have to need mean fat...a bit more fat, but you can be fit too.
    And fit older men still tend to have more heft and build, as fit older women still tend to have more curves. (there are exceptions...but this it not the trend)

    The fashion industry has a "youth" mindset...and builds their dress for that.
    More mature people as consumers need to compensate for that...but you can still dress well.
    Again, it takes more thought.

    Just because some fashion designers prefer to design for the fit of mannequins (male or female)...doesn't mean you should fall into the same category...nor want to.

    Again, a good suit can fit a man of some build...you just have to seek for those types.
    And you have to try it on. (again & again...yes Men, I know it's tedious and a pain in the ass...just do it anyway, you'll get results...and like what you'll see)
    Look at yourself in the mirror all angles.

    Think, do I look like I project power and influence??
    Cause that's why men wear suits...don't fool yourself.

    'Cause a tie doesn't make you think smarter...and a suit doesn't make you richer.
    But people seem to react that way
    ...and it translates into an attractive look. (if done right)
    Even "fat" men...*ahem* excuse me, men with a larger build. :rolleyes:

    I can almost guarantee you that @Kirstang put some good thought and consideration into his clothing...it didn't just happen.
    Sometimes this comes naturally, with a sense of cut & color...sometimes it is trained & learned.

    Good fashion takes some effort,
    it isn't magic.

    Even for slim younger people...they've got their own challenges with looks.

    What looks great with an outfit...may not look as great when it comes off.
    Everything counts.

    I think men should try to be healthy for themselves, whatever their build. (and women too)
    Then build their wardrobe around that.

    Oh yeah... *this may change*. So get ready to potentially buy different things through your life.
    But the principle is still the same.
    Buy the right outfit for you...that projects the statement you want to make
    ...and be prepared to take some time & effort to do it up right.

    I like my build, big and all that...and it's a pain in the ass to find things that fit and look good on me. (...and be willing to walk away if it does not)
    But I like the results when it works.
    And I realize others do too.
    Does the ego good. :cool:
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2014
  12. Plan9

    Plan9 Rock 'n Roll

    Location:
    Earth
    Which one?
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. rogue49

    rogue49 Tech Kung Fu Artist Staff Member

    Location:
    Baltimore/DC

    Wow!...I've been doing a tie for years and didn't even know how much more the "named" knots were doing it more. (mine are not even as much as a Half Windsor)
    I only go over, under, over again, under & up and through...the others go over at least one or twice more. No wonder I find that many other men have their tie length short.

    With mine, I want to have enough length to have the back tucked into the label for control (if available) and the tip just "a bit" over my belt (no shirt space should show)
    The knot shouldn't be too tight, not too broad either...snug but not tight against the neck...and I find a thick enough cloth to allow for a centered "notch" in it just below the knot...which looks great for affect.
    Collar crisp, seam aligned (button-downs don't look as good anymore.)

    Thin ties don't work well with my build.

    This is perfect for me...
    [​IMG]

    I'm dressed in no time at all.
    Typically, I'll wear a nice pin to hold the tie. (hate it flipping around, also hate it tucked in like the military do at times)
    Sans coat...around mid-chest at the tip of the sternum.
    With coat, a bit higher, since I wear three-buttons, so it comes just above the vest break.

    Interesting.
     
  14. Charlatan

    Charlatan sous les pavés, la plage

    Location:
    Temasek
    • Like Like x 2
  15. Chris Noyb

    Chris Noyb Get in, buckle up, hang on, & be quiet.

    Location:
    Large City, TX
    I have high/square shoulders. Mens suit coats & sports coats are made with the shoulder slope to fit most men. It's a PITA to have to buy oversized coats/jackets, then have them tailored so that you don't get the humps and pulls in the lapels, the shoulders, & across the back. And it takes a really good tailor to do it right.

    Pants are even worse if your thighs are oversized for your body.

    ----------------------------------------------------

    Oh yeah, Dwayne Johnson's suit is nicely tailored, but it looks like he slept in it.
     
  16. Shadowex3

    Shadowex3 Very Tilted

    So Brooks Brothers was having their semi-annual sale this past week or so, and I caught the last two days of it. It turns out their smallest everything and second-slimmest cut suit actually fit. I walked out of the store with three suits (charcoal, black, and navy) and six shirts that finally aren't giant bags of cloth for 40% off.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  17. rogue49

    rogue49 Tech Kung Fu Artist Staff Member

    Location:
    Baltimore/DC
    I just saw clips of the recent Milan menswear show... summary link

    And the only collection that impressed me was Brioni.
     
  18. Cayvmann

    Cayvmann Very Tilted


    We could have a fat-guy in a suit pageant. I think I still have a suit somewhere.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  19. Chris Noyb

    Chris Noyb Get in, buckle up, hang on, & be quiet.

    Location:
    Large City, TX
    If you include sport coats I can participate. My two suits, actually pretty nice ones, would require a lot of alterations.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  20. redravin

    redravin Cynical Optimist Donor

    Location:
    North
    Brief story:

    I decided to go in for services to the Division of Vocational Rehabilitation.
    They are a government service that helps people with disabilities (epilepsy, severe depression, and carpel tunnel in my case) find work with companies that understand.
    The counselor looking at my resume, goatee, duster, jeans and bush hat, made the comment that he was sure he could find me a job in retail no problem.
    Needless to say that freaked me out a bit.
    I'm good at working retail but being pigeonholed or doing it for the rest of my life isn't in my game plan.

    So for my appointment today I pulled out one of my nicest suits, a fine tie, had a haircut, pocket handkerchief, dress shoes, the whole nine yards.
    I explained to him it wasn't my plan to be a retail worker and he exclaimed that I looked like the store owner.
    Now he's making plans to get me an office job with a serious career with retirement and health care.
    All thanks to a suit.

    Sad it has to be that way sometimes but so it goes.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2015
    • Like Like x 1