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Old 05-04-2005, 08:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
Insane
 
Location: Michigan
Amp 'n Subs in 2004 Dodge Durango w/3rd row seating...

Has anyone done this? I just got my Durango and I want to put my subs in, but man, its going to be a small box :-/.

Bottom of box depth: max 16in
Top of box depth: max 10in
H x W: 14-16in x 30-35in
Providing about 2 cu ft per sub.

Anyhoo, I am going to keep the stock system, an Infinity 8 speaker system with 6 disc cd/mp3 in-dash changer. I need to get:

1) Sub Box
2) Amp wiring kit
3) Harness to Bare wire kit (from the car to bare wires)
4) Bare wire to Harness kit (from the bare wires to the factory radio)
5) RCA line converter to hook up between 3 and 4 (look ma, no cuts!)
6) Equalizer with subwoofer volume / power switch.

Ya. This is gonna be fun!
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Old 05-04-2005, 12:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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havnt done it in a truck myself, although i have done it in cars, and seen it done it trucks. Just make sure u provide enough cubic feet of air for the subs (many subs will say there box requirements on the packaging, or u can check on the internet. A box thats too small just wont sound good with some subs.
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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A sealed box using an average of the dimensions you provided, less material (assuming 3/4"), will be around 3.7 cu. ft.. Thats plenty of airspace for most of todays 10" or 12" drivers. A typical 10" only requires 1 cu. ft. or less. With the space available you could build a descent sized vented enclosure.

And it sounds like you have done this before - not many people are aware of the reverse harness idea.
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Old 05-05-2005, 07:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
Insane
 
Location: Michigan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson
A sealed box using an average of the dimensions you provided, less material (assuming 3/4"), will be around 3.7 cu. ft.. Thats plenty of airspace for most of todays 10" or 12" drivers. A typical 10" only requires 1 cu. ft. or less. With the space available you could build a descent sized vented enclosure.

And it sounds like you have done this before - not many people are aware of the reverse harness idea.
I found a 2-12in sub box made by Q-Logic that has 1.25 cubic ft per sub (divider in the middle) that is 10in deep which is perfect. It's going to leave me about 1.5 inches between the box and the hatch . The MTX subs I have require 0.75 to 2 cubic ft to perform well. Now I just have to either order it and wait for shipping or find some place that has it locally!

I decided against an eq since all I really wanted was a volume adjustor and a on/off switch for the amp. $30 for a RCA volume control, about 1in x 3/4in with input and output RCAs. So, from the line converter to the input of the volume control, output of volume control to the input of the amp. Good stuff.

And yes, I have done this many times before On my 2001 Escort that I just traded in on the Durango had the same setup with harnesses. I hate the fact that they cut and solder at car aduio shops. I know its the best way, but it's then moidified and can not go back to origional and looking like nothing was installed.
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Old 05-05-2005, 10:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Location: Lex Vegas, KY
Cruthfield has some excellent under seat and cargo area boxes, premade to look stock.
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Old 05-05-2005, 10:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
Insane
 
Location: Michigan
Yep, but none for a 2004 Durango for the back area. They have some kick panel setups, but I want my 12s in the back, not 8's up front .

Now, if i had a 2003 Durango, they have some sweet cargo boxes .
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Old 05-05-2005, 02:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Location: Canada
If you have the necessary carpentry skills (and it's really not as hard as it's made out to be) you could pobably save money by making your own box, as well as getting the exact fit you want.
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Old 05-05-2005, 06:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
Insane
 
Location: California
bump that shit!
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Old 05-05-2005, 07:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
Insane
 
Location: Michigan
I ended up getting the Q-Logic box. Ran into a problem tho. I crimped all the wires and line converter. Plugged it all in, turned the car on, and no radio . I checked the wires on the factory harness and compared them to the harness->bare wires and the power and a few others don't match up. I am undeicded. Call Best Buy and find out if there is a harness difference for normal vs premium sound (even know I TOLD them I had premium) or just rewire the damn harness myself by popping out the wires on both ends of the harnesses I bought.
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Old 05-05-2005, 07:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
Insane
 
Location: Michigan
Oh, this is after spending about 2 hours getting everything properly wired, mounting the fuse block, making the wires 100% invisible with the exception of the small portion to actually hook up the amp and taking the subs out of the old box and putting them into the new box. Man was I bummed when it was ALL done with the exception of the damned harness :-/.
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Old 05-06-2005, 05:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
Insane
 
Location: Michigan
Here is a pic of the subs and amp. Nothing special looking, but it is what it is. As soon as I sort out the harness, it will be special .

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Old 05-06-2005, 08:11 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Location: Kingston, Ontario
Looks good

Hope you don't need to move anything big!
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Old 05-09-2005, 09:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
Insane
 
Location: Michigan
Thanks! The subs come out really easy and the amp is mounted to the cargo hold door thingy. I can still move kinda big stuff with it. For BIG stuff, we have the mother-in-laws crew cab truck with 8ft bed .


To finish this system off, I ended up cutting wires on the harness. Almost every single one. Turns out the audio systems with factory amps in Crysler/Dodge vechicles have something called a DataBus, which has 1 solid output from the radio itself. My Ford Escort had the proper harness to bypass the factory amp, so this was new to me (a harness that doesn't work). I ended up giving up and taking it into the local car audio place and they hooked the line converter up after the factory amp (on the same wires going to the back speakers themselves). We (yes, I helped the pros ) crimped my frankenstein of a harness mess. All is pretty again and sounds very nice!
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Old 05-17-2005, 07:31 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Location: Clarkson U.
My subs run as low as .7 cu ft, and my box alots for 1 cu foot per sub. Its a tight box, but Ive got them over powered by a little, and they sound great. My two cents.

By the way, two 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect VQs and an Ininfity 1210A amp at 1300 watts.
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Old 05-17-2005, 10:40 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Location: Kingston, Ontario
Quote:
Originally Posted by asshopo
Thanks! The subs come out really easy and the amp is mounted to the cargo hold door thingy. I can still move kinda big stuff with it. For BIG stuff, we have the mother-in-laws crew cab truck with 8ft bed .


To finish this system off, I ended up cutting wires on the harness. Almost every single one. Turns out the audio systems with factory amps in Crysler/Dodge vechicles have something called a DataBus, which has 1 solid output from the radio itself. My Ford Escort had the proper harness to bypass the factory amp, so this was new to me (a harness that doesn't work). I ended up giving up and taking it into the local car audio place and they hooked the line converter up after the factory amp (on the same wires going to the back speakers themselves). We (yes, I helped the pros ) crimped my frankenstein of a harness mess. All is pretty again and sounds very nice!

Gotta love the in-laws, I guess I should get a shot of my new subs on here...but I need to get my 1200 watt amp firsts because im cooking my 600 watt trying to push 1200 out of it
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