05-04-2005, 08:13 AM | #1 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: Michigan
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Amp 'n Subs in 2004 Dodge Durango w/3rd row seating...
Has anyone done this? I just got my Durango and I want to put my subs in, but man, its going to be a small box :-/.
Bottom of box depth: max 16in Top of box depth: max 10in H x W: 14-16in x 30-35in Providing about 2 cu ft per sub. Anyhoo, I am going to keep the stock system, an Infinity 8 speaker system with 6 disc cd/mp3 in-dash changer. I need to get: 1) Sub Box 2) Amp wiring kit 3) Harness to Bare wire kit (from the car to bare wires) 4) Bare wire to Harness kit (from the bare wires to the factory radio) 5) RCA line converter to hook up between 3 and 4 (look ma, no cuts!) 6) Equalizer with subwoofer volume / power switch. Ya. This is gonna be fun!
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Patterns have a habit of repeating themselves. |
05-04-2005, 12:51 PM | #2 (permalink) |
Psycho
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havnt done it in a truck myself, although i have done it in cars, and seen it done it trucks. Just make sure u provide enough cubic feet of air for the subs (many subs will say there box requirements on the packaging, or u can check on the internet. A box thats too small just wont sound good with some subs.
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Revere Jena Malone.......this is not a suggestion. |
05-04-2005, 02:13 PM | #3 (permalink) |
Tilted
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A sealed box using an average of the dimensions you provided, less material (assuming 3/4"), will be around 3.7 cu. ft.. Thats plenty of airspace for most of todays 10" or 12" drivers. A typical 10" only requires 1 cu. ft. or less. With the space available you could build a descent sized vented enclosure.
And it sounds like you have done this before - not many people are aware of the reverse harness idea.
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Nelson |
05-05-2005, 07:29 AM | #4 (permalink) | |
Insane
Location: Michigan
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Quote:
I decided against an eq since all I really wanted was a volume adjustor and a on/off switch for the amp. $30 for a RCA volume control, about 1in x 3/4in with input and output RCAs. So, from the line converter to the input of the volume control, output of volume control to the input of the amp. Good stuff. And yes, I have done this many times before On my 2001 Escort that I just traded in on the Durango had the same setup with harnesses. I hate the fact that they cut and solder at car aduio shops. I know its the best way, but it's then moidified and can not go back to origional and looking like nothing was installed.
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Patterns have a habit of repeating themselves. |
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05-05-2005, 10:56 AM | #6 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: Michigan
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Yep, but none for a 2004 Durango for the back area. They have some kick panel setups, but I want my 12s in the back, not 8's up front .
Now, if i had a 2003 Durango, they have some sweet cargo boxes .
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Patterns have a habit of repeating themselves. |
05-05-2005, 07:54 PM | #9 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: Michigan
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I ended up getting the Q-Logic box. Ran into a problem tho. I crimped all the wires and line converter. Plugged it all in, turned the car on, and no radio . I checked the wires on the factory harness and compared them to the harness->bare wires and the power and a few others don't match up. I am undeicded. Call Best Buy and find out if there is a harness difference for normal vs premium sound (even know I TOLD them I had premium) or just rewire the damn harness myself by popping out the wires on both ends of the harnesses I bought.
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Patterns have a habit of repeating themselves. |
05-05-2005, 07:56 PM | #10 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: Michigan
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Oh, this is after spending about 2 hours getting everything properly wired, mounting the fuse block, making the wires 100% invisible with the exception of the small portion to actually hook up the amp and taking the subs out of the old box and putting them into the new box. Man was I bummed when it was ALL done with the exception of the damned harness :-/.
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Patterns have a habit of repeating themselves. |
05-09-2005, 09:11 AM | #13 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: Michigan
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Thanks! The subs come out really easy and the amp is mounted to the cargo hold door thingy. I can still move kinda big stuff with it. For BIG stuff, we have the mother-in-laws crew cab truck with 8ft bed .
To finish this system off, I ended up cutting wires on the harness. Almost every single one. Turns out the audio systems with factory amps in Crysler/Dodge vechicles have something called a DataBus, which has 1 solid output from the radio itself. My Ford Escort had the proper harness to bypass the factory amp, so this was new to me (a harness that doesn't work). I ended up giving up and taking it into the local car audio place and they hooked the line converter up after the factory amp (on the same wires going to the back speakers themselves). We (yes, I helped the pros ) crimped my frankenstein of a harness mess. All is pretty again and sounds very nice!
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Patterns have a habit of repeating themselves. |
05-17-2005, 07:31 AM | #14 (permalink) |
Fledgling Dead Head
Location: Clarkson U.
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My subs run as low as .7 cu ft, and my box alots for 1 cu foot per sub. Its a tight box, but Ive got them over powered by a little, and they sound great. My two cents.
By the way, two 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect VQs and an Ininfity 1210A amp at 1300 watts. |
05-17-2005, 10:40 AM | #15 (permalink) | |
Lost!!
Location: Kingston, Ontario
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Quote:
Gotta love the in-laws, I guess I should get a shot of my new subs on here...but I need to get my 1200 watt amp firsts because im cooking my 600 watt trying to push 1200 out of it |
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Tags |
2004, amp, dodge, durango, row, seating, subs, w or 3rd |
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