07-04-2003, 01:59 PM | #1 (permalink) |
Please touch this.
Owner/Admin
Location: Manhattan
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Nadia... what to do with her
No need to look too closely, you've probably seen about a billion of these from your chair to the corner store. That's the problem. I need some good suggestions on what to do to my baby.
I'm not a ricer, so I'm not gonna put a body kit or an obnoxious spoiler on her, but I would like to get some nice, classy (read: not shiny) 18" wheels. I'd also like to do something with the tail light bar. I've seen only a couple of examples, so I don't know what is out there. My best idea right now is to replace it with a black panel. As far as performance goes, I'm open to suggestions if you'd be willing to go into *detail* about your idea. Brands, prices, processes... Also, please dont post links to other forums, because that would be defeating the purpose of *this* forum.
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07-04-2003, 02:04 PM | #2 (permalink) |
Banned
Location: OlyWa
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after owning 2 honda's... i say push it off a cliff... but i dont think your open to that...
all i can suggest for the wheels is go to les schwab (if you have those down yonder) and use their wheel machine, it has pics of your car on it allready and just sticks pics of wheels on it... pretty lame but it works. and maybe tint the windows more, if you can, so people will think your really rich... |
07-04-2003, 03:24 PM | #3 (permalink) |
Registered User
Location: Somewhere in Ohio
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I'll start with rims. I love the Racing Hart C5's. I'll get a set of 17's for my ride some day. They also Have 18's in the same rim. Here's a page with all of Racing Harts rims with tire packages. The C5 is down kinda far. The C2, C3, and S15's are all great looking wheels. A set of 18's will cost you around $1200 with tires. Here's some pics of each of the rims I mentioned.
<center> C5 C2 C3 S15 </center> Also, after you get some dope rims you should lower the ride to make it look better and handle even better too. Just don't go too low cause I think it looks like crap. Adustable coil overs are the way to go. You can pick up a set for $150 or so. These will allow you to choose just how much you want to drop the car. Most sets can be adjusted from 0" to 3" drop. Honestly, I doubt you'd want to go more than 1.75"s. Performance for imports costs a ton of cash. Since you aren't dumb and won't rice your ride all you really need is to upgrade the air intake and exhaust A new exhaust sytem will cost you because you have a V6 with dual exhaust already. These are all pretty simple upgrades too. If you start adding performance shit to the engine it get's really fucking expensive and not really woth it unless you wanna race the car. Not sure what kind of rear light you're looking for, but I found these I like the smoked rear lights that I've seen better than this. |
07-04-2003, 04:39 PM | #4 (permalink) |
Tilted Cat Head
Administrator
Location: Manhattan, NY
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just don't get these things...
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07-04-2003, 06:10 PM | #5 (permalink) |
Tone.
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Sure you want 18's? They're gonna be heavy, and even if you find relatively light ones they're gonna have a good deal of rotational mass to overcome. it comes with 15's so even going to 16 or 17 would look a lot better without so much drop in performance.
Performance upgrades I'd recommend: 1) TIRES! Yokohama AVS ES100's are sticky as hell and they have decent tread life (not as good as a michelin, but then michelins won't glue you to the road either). Should be around $60/tire or so but that varies widely depending on what wheel you go with and where you buy. 2) BRAKES! (notice how we're upgrading the turn and the stop stuff before the gofast stuff? Good formula to follow.). Keep your stock rotors, but change the front pads to Porterfield R4S, available from porterfield.com. These are carbon-kevlar pads that have amazing stopping power. Price varies by model. 3) Suspension. This all depends on what your final goal is. Do you want a stoplight drag car or do you want to carve up the twisties. My personal preference is a car with excellent cornering capability. I like bilstein shocks with performance springs. Brand of spring I can't help you too much with 'cause I haven't modded an Accord (yet) but I can say that bilsteins are some of the best performance shocks around. 5) I/H/E. Intake, Header, Exhaust. Don't buy the intake. There's no point in spending $150 on a metal pipe. Go to the hardware store, get some CPVC plumbing pipe that matches or is SLIGHTLY larger in diameter to the throttle body opening and get a rubber hose coupling (also from the hardware store) to attach it. Then get a K&N cone filter and couple it to the other end of the pipe. You will probably want to get an elbow so you can direct the pipe toward the front and side of the engine bay. Now get some plexiglass, also from the hardware store, and cut a piece that will fit vertically between the filter and the rest of the engine bay. Attach that. You've just made yourself a cold air intake for about $10 plus the cost of the K&N. Header: Not as important until you start getting whacko with the performance (and you very well may. Mods are addictive once you start doing them), but once you do you want to talk to other accord owners who are into non-rice mods and see what they use. Exhaust. Thermal R&D makes some *awesome* performance stainless exhausts. They're pricey but they're well worth it. You need to decide at this point whether you will be putting a turbo or a supercharger in your car or not. If you do, you want the turbo system. Get the whole thing, cat back. Catalytic Converter. Catco.com. Get a high-flow cat. $100. Nuff said. That's the cheap stuff. Here's what to do if you want to really go apeshit. Jackson Racing Supercharger. I like superchargers better than turbos because when I build a car I'm not going for raw speed, I'm going for fun-to-drive. Turbos have lag and build up slowly. Superchargers are instant-on and deliver a huge kick right away. They're a LOT of fun. When you do this you'll need (PROBABLY - - it varies with each car - consult your local tuner shop): Larger fuel injectors Higher capacity fuel pump GAUGES! I've known a few crazy fools that run boost with no gauges and they always regret it. You need at minimum an air/fuel gauge. I prefer EGT - exhaust gas temperature gauge because it gives you a more accurate reading on what the engine is doing. You probably also want an oil temp and a water temp gauge. A boost gauge is pretty much a must. ECU - you'll want a programmable ECU so you can control the fuel management curve yourself. Otherwise you'll never reach the full potential of your supercharged engine. Generally a standard Honda engine can take 9lbs of boost without any building. If you go higher you'll want to build the bottom end so it doesn't blow up on you when you're at high boost. And of course if you wanna go really insane you can swap an engine (I know of a few that have small block Chevy's in their civics. FAST but the handling is shot) or even put a jet engine on it (hey, it's been done!) |
07-04-2003, 07:02 PM | #7 (permalink) |
Please touch this.
Owner/Admin
Location: Manhattan
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Great suggestions! Thanks! Definately something to think on. As it is now, I am NOT a car guts person. I don't even know someone who is. I will have to look for a mechanic who can help me with all this once I put it into motion.
those are 16" rims (it's an EX, not an LX), so 17" wouldn't be too spectacular of a change. Gotta go with the 18" well, need to keep thinking
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07-04-2003, 07:37 PM | #8 (permalink) |
Upright
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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id recommend a set of OZ Superleggera III or some OZ F1 Cup's
www.ozwheels.com Always thought they look oustanding on most cars. Little bit pricey though |
07-04-2003, 08:04 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
Tone.
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Quote:
In that case, try to find wheels that have as much weight near the hub as possible. The farther out you go on the wheel with weight, the more rotational mass the car has to overcome to turn the wheel, which makes you go slower FWIW you could probably find a set of magnesium wheels in 18", but they're very expensive and if you ever hit a curb you'll bend the wheel. The advantage is that they're LIGHT. |
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07-04-2003, 11:54 PM | #11 (permalink) | |
Crazy
Location: Canadeh!
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Quote:
I never understood why people do that. I mean, it's not like they're not going to know that it's a civic. Or in this case, an accord. I'd say if you've got the money then supercharge that engine. Expensive and fast, what more can you want? As far as cosmetics go, thats my favourite gen of the Accord, so I'm inclined to say leave it as it is heh... maybe a SMALL spoiler Like that. For rims, I'd not go any bigger than 17", but thats just me. |
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07-05-2003, 04:57 AM | #14 (permalink) | |
Registered User
Location: Somewhere in Ohio
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Quote:
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07-05-2003, 05:07 AM | #15 (permalink) |
Tone.
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if you're hung up about cosmetics, get high-temp paint and paint the PVC black. I just have an objection to spending more than $100 on a pipe that cost about 75 cents to make. And cheap performance is actually pretty cool. I have a lot more respect for the guy that makes his own parts than I do for the guy that runs out and plunks down a boatload of cash on something just 'cause it looks pretty, but that's just me.
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07-05-2003, 06:44 AM | #16 (permalink) |
Thank You Jesus
Location: Twilight Zone
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Hey Hal here is a serious performance site, for hondas,
they make great performance mods, I install alot of the companys stuff for the customers at the import garage that I work at. jackson
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07-05-2003, 07:18 AM | #17 (permalink) |
Loser
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Although the only import I've ever played around with is my RX7, I can tell you that intakes which are coated/made of a non-metal material, i.e the iceman intakes, will give you better performance in that they block out heat much better. Another route would be to buy one of the inexpensive intakes and have it jet hot coated. Looks good, and can reduce intake temperatures by quite a good bit.
On one of our drag cars (79 Malibu) we made a dual ram-air setup for it with mandrel bends. Picked up a full tenth when we had the pipes jet hot coated. |
07-05-2003, 10:05 AM | #18 (permalink) |
Loser
Location: Toronto
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Well I slept on it and after careful consideration, if I had a V6 Accord (which I would love), I would:
1. Put nicer rims on it, like OZ, or BBS. Note that BBS might not make them for your car. 2. Lower it slightly, just to set it apart from the rest, not to look like one of those stupid cars that scrape the ground. But for god's sake, get a professional to do this! What a lot of kids do is literally "clip" their springs, even with bolt cutters, and put em back on. While this does lower your car, it will change the wheels' camber. This means that they will point inward like this: / \ if you're looking at the car from the front. Everything in your car is researched by one of the finest car manufacturers in the world, and they know what they're doing. Don't just go willy nilly and do whatever, every part is the way it is for a reason. 3. A cheap modification is the a racing chip. Get a good one! This will adjust your fuel / air mixture for different speeds, optimizing performance. 4. New cat-back dual tip exhausts. This would look really cool, imho. 5. Tint the windows. Again, professionally. I think at this point, you would have a really really nice black Accord, and this is precisely what I'd do to my car if I had one. This is what it COULD look like (except real). [img]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SQDTArsUxunQLMwvcoGUkJaCMZfo1dXSrnlfjzPXw60HpIOVQNCK4saIpNPOgGstX*iR5ZnwT7NA1fYvi8TMDgxXAJ7CdMldlhAMXfCzDGTE0zRSztuXSw/h9.jpg?dc=4675429031603652019[/img] I want that car Last edited by Snakeyes; 07-05-2003 at 11:14 AM.. |
07-05-2003, 11:06 AM | #19 (permalink) |
Upright
Location: Philadelphia
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Looks like it could turn out pretty nice looking.
As for the argument for the "cheap intake", as long as there are no nasty kinks in the flow, it will probally outperform a store-bought polished Al intake. My buddy has a polished Al cold air intake on his jeep and I laugh at him as it runs down the edge of his engine compartment getting heated up like a champ. Here's the nerd-tech behind the abs or pvs intake: If you use clear abs, like you can buy at any hardware place, it has a thermal conductivity of 1.74 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F. Not bad, though by itself that probally doesnt mean a heap of shit to anyone. 6061-T6 Al on the other hand has a thermal conductivity of 1160 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F. Thats quite a bit more conductive than the plastic. If your set on getting an intake, follow WarWagon's suggestion of getting a non metallic or highly coated intake. edit: the only downside is the plastic could melt with high temps. /nerd mode off now.
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07-05-2003, 09:40 PM | #20 (permalink) |
Crazy
Location: Ontario Canada
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Halx, this is my buddies 2K Accord
His car has 20% tint Dual Flowmaster exhuast 1.5" drop 18" ADR Sukado rims Prada low pro rubber Angel Eye/HID headlamps Shaved trunk (no reflector between brake lights) Enjoy
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07-05-2003, 10:01 PM | #22 (permalink) |
Please touch this.
Owner/Admin
Location: Manhattan
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wow.. what a job he did on that! I congratulate him. As soon as I saw the back, I thought, "I LIKE THAT!"
What's that called along the bottom of the body? It's not obnoxious at all.
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07-05-2003, 10:10 PM | #23 (permalink) |
Crazy
Location: Ontario Canada
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That is a Honda OEM skirt package, its what Honda puts on their cars...factory spec. The only downfall to the shaved back look is the brake light at the bottom of the speedo is on all the time, its just a tiny red light that can be disabled...not a huge deal. If you are interested I can get your furthur information. Ie email to the owner of the car, or links to the car club that he is on. I read your first post, you didn't want any links...but if you want, I can give...lol
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"I'm all in favor of keeping dangerous weapons out of the hands of fools. Let's start with typewriters." - Frank Lloyd Wright (1868-1959) |
07-05-2003, 10:20 PM | #24 (permalink) |
Crazy
Location: Ontario Canada
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Here is a better idea of how a few bucks spent on the headlamps can totally change the front end of your Accord.
I got to drive the car for the first time today...almost 75 km or 45 miles or so. I love my Bonneville to much to think about an Accord, but I can really respect what he has done with his car. Minus the audio system all that work is about $4000 CDN, I'm sure you might be able to get a better deal. Since your car is a V6 you will benefit from the extra power, but once you are done with the "show" work on the "go" an upper strut bar helps tie in the chassis, a turbo...helps. If you want to do an intake, AEM is a nice way to go. Please don't wreak it with NoS or anything stupid. The V6 has lots of power bone stock Hopefully you can consider some of his ideas. Its defintely a show stopper
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07-06-2003, 06:36 AM | #26 (permalink) |
Tone.
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"3. A cheap modification is the a racing chip. Get a good one! This will adjust your fuel / air mixture for different speeds, optimizing performance."
This doesn't usually do a whole lot until you have other mods for the chip to work with. Regarding the PVC intake melting, that's one reason you specify CPVC. That's the stuff that's meant for hot water delivery. Gives you several advantages. First, it won't melt. Second, it won't leech chlorates like regular PVC will - chlorate fumes aren't great for your engine, and they take up space that could be filled with oxygen and fuel!. Third, since it's meant for water flow, the interior will be perfectly smooth. Get a 45 degree radius curve (the guy in the plumbing department will know what that is) and you basically have a REALLY cheap mandrel bent intake. And as I said, if you paint it black - especially gloss black - it's very doubtful anyone will even know it's PVC. I'll second the Jackson Racing recommendation. Those guys are excellent. another good one is kingmotorsports.com. They have a lot of Accord stuff and they're one of the best Honda tuners on the planet. They're the only dealer authorized to sell Mugen's stuff. Mugen is THE manufacturer of go-fast goodies for Hondas/Acuras. Anyone authorized to sell their stuff is required to be VERY good. They're a great bunch of guys at that shop - strike up an email conversation with them and they'll give you ideas for whatever you want to do with the car. If you want, you can have the quickest Accord on the planet through them (hope you have a lot of money if you go that route though!). |
07-06-2003, 01:19 PM | #27 (permalink) |
Tilted Cat Head
Administrator
Location: Manhattan, NY
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nice ride... the shaved look is great.. and that front mod is clean too
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07-06-2003, 11:53 PM | #28 (permalink) |
Buffering.........
Location: Wisconsin...
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I would get some gutter guard and make some grill inserts....cheap to make and they look nice....
a nice aluminum dash kit would look nice.... Get a aftermarket spoiler with a led 3rd brake light in it....they look nice and don't look ricey. Chrome edging on the doors would help it look nice...plus it helps against dinging other people's doors... Projector headlights do look nice.... Stainless steel side body paneling....looks great and yet not ricey...about $115 a set but makes your car stand out. Rims are a must.. Some basic clamp on stainless tailpipe ends....and no they don't look foreign cause they are only as big as your previous exhaust tips. Paint your brake calipers...cheap to do yourself and looks great! Stainless steel wiper blades...www.crutchfield.com sells some and they are about $15 a piece and comes with 3 refills. They are made out of silicone and work very nice. Engine mod wise.... Cold air intake.....you can find them cheap on ebay....gives you better gas mileage...around $50 Get a AEM bypass valve for the intake so if you hit a puddle it doesn't cause hydrolock...yikes! High performance ignition would be nice..gives you a little more hp and gas mileage.
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07-07-2003, 02:44 PM | #30 (permalink) |
Please touch this.
Owner/Admin
Location: Manhattan
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Why the heck would I want a 20 year old car? Damn, dude. Think or get out of the thread.
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07-07-2003, 05:10 PM | #31 (permalink) |
Upright
Location: Calgary, Canada
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The accord.
Does Honda make a kit to replace that chrome beading around the windows? I am anti-chrome except on wheels.
That Accord with the drop and the 18s looks good. Depending on how good the roads are where you live, I wouldn't reccommend any lower than a 40 profile tire. 35 is a compromise and 30 looks awesome, but is well known to cause serious neck and lower back injury (and bent wheels.) As well, I put 8.5" width wheels on my car (not sure if Hondas can handle that width) and I wouldn't do it again. The car sticks like sh*t to a blanket in the curves, but on day-to-day roads it's a real chore fighting with the steering wheel. The tires follow every damned rut and groove in the asphalt. I'd recommend sticking to 7.5" width maximum. The big fat tires DO look sweet from the back, however Don't get altezzas. That fad jumped the shark when they started making them for full-sized pickups. That modded rear end in the picture looks very clean. |
07-09-2003, 07:13 AM | #32 (permalink) |
Tone.
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I don't think Honda does have a kit to replace the chrome, but I bet a body shop could do it easilly. They'd probably leave it in place and put a black applique over it. I'm not sure that'd look so good though - the chrome makes a nice color contrast - an ALL black Accord might not look as good as a 99% black Accord.
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07-13-2003, 06:52 PM | #35 (permalink) |
The sky calls to us ...
Super Moderator
Location: CT
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If you don't want to put homemade stuff under your hood, although I would, Auto Zone sells K&N cold air intake kits that are easy to install. You need a pair of pliers and a few screwdrivers. They're in the $100-200+ range, but K&N's really do help performance.
Lower the car a bit, not much more than 1.5" and it will help your handling, and not look goofy. Either JC Whitney or Jegs has adjustable air springs which can be used to raise and lower the car at the flip of a switch, and also make the ride a lot smoother. Both of those companies have free catalogs available from their websites. They are primarily American car stuff, but they now have sport compact sections. |
08-04-2003, 08:57 PM | #36 (permalink) |
Please touch this.
Owner/Admin
Location: Manhattan
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All right, I got the ball rolling on my car. I have a price quote from the guy who is gonna be doing it all.
After running over a few different options, I finally decided to try out what BonneFan's friend did with his Accord. Code:
Honda Body Kit $650.00 Headlights - halo / black $379.00 Billet Grill - silver $179.00 Coil Overs $249.00 Lower $100.00 Shave Rear $600.00 Paint - Body Kit $250.00 Color Sand & Buff $400.00 Wheels & Tires $1,200.00
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08-05-2003, 12:45 AM | #38 (permalink) |
Psycho
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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If you want to get more poke, look into customised chips for the engine management system, preferably in tandem with intakes and exhausts; you can get good gains out of this route, since manufacturers typically run fairly conservative settings on the ECU.
Word of warning, though; find out what trade-offs a vendor has made. ECU changes can screw your emissions if you live somewhere with strict rules, for example, or may require beefed up cooling (and will almost certainly want better breathing, hence the recommendation to look at exhausts and intakes). ECU reprogramming or chips will probably cost you a few hundred dollars, minimum; one cheap route might be to look into whether the US ECU is detuned compared to Japanese or Euro releases and see if you can swap a stock one in from another market for a win (by way of example, there's about a 20 HP difference in Aussie and Japanese Nissan 200ZXs purely due to the programming for different markets). I'll second the advice on making sure you spec the brakes for any power increases you get. Oh, another thing: if you're going to get serious about performance, it's a good idea to look into getting the car run on a dyno to measure actual power/torque figures before and after modifications, so you know whether changes are actually working as advertised. |
08-05-2003, 08:36 AM | #40 (permalink) | |
Stereophonic
Location: Chitown!!
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