05-09-2004, 09:50 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Caulking
There is mildew build up on the caulking in our bathtub. Can I just caulk over it? Do I have to clean the mildew off before I do that? Or do I have to completely remove the caulk that is there now?
Am I spelling caulk right? Or is it cock? I can't remember.
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05-09-2004, 10:35 AM | #2 (permalink) |
Psycho
Location: Where the night things are
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Your spelling is good. You might try using a diluted solution of household bleach and an old toothbrush on the existing caulk to remove the mildew. If that fails, then remove the existing caulk down to the tub and wall surfaces. My favorite tool to do this is an inspection sticker scraper, available at auto parts stores. The folding handle affords good comfortable control of the cutting edge. Once you've gotten all of the old stuff out, make sure everything is dry-use a hair dryer if necessary. Recaulk using top shelf stuff-DAP and GE are my personal favorites. If you're not that adept at the art of caulking, there is a cheat trick. Using masking tape, apply a strip on either side of the joint to be filled, around 1/8" from where you'd like the finished line to be. Apply the caulk, using push application (pull doesn't fill the joint well) and then smooth the joint with your fingertip. Now remove the tape strips, one at a time taking care not to get spooge everywhere, and once they're gone, resmooth the joint, and it looks like you've been an extra on 'This Old Louse'. Good luck
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05-09-2004, 12:09 PM | #3 (permalink) |
Junkie
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I second the reccommenation for taking the old caulk out. (Not to be confused with taking the old cock out.) The new layer will only adhere to the old, and be more prone to come off the wall.
I've found that using a heat gun sparingly helps to remove old caulk too. |
05-10-2004, 04:20 PM | #5 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: Foothills of the Cascade Mtns.
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A couple things to add to kazoo's tips. Like kazoo said, get top shelf caulking. The phrase "You get what you pay for." is gospel when it comes to caulking. I prefer to use the silicone caulking instead of the latex. It seems to stick better.
Be sure and have the area where you are going to be laying the caulking completely dry. If you are caulking along wall panels, make sure there is no water behind the panels. I've had to come back a couple weeks later after doing caulking to find out that everything wasn't dry and the caulking hadn't stuck to anything that still had moisture in behind. As Kazoo said about using your finger to smool the caulking down, wet your finger a little bit before smoothing. Then caulking won't stick to your finger and will give a smooter apperance. Let us know how it went and good luck! |
05-17-2004, 06:29 PM | #6 (permalink) |
Addict
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good advice all around. If old calk is ok, except for mildew then try to clean it. tile and/or cleanup area of building supply has strongest stuff. Maybe that will do it. If not, remove old and be 100% sure to get all soap scum off with strong cleaner - or it won't stick. Good soap scum cleaner needs rubber gloves and open windows or respirator sometimes. don't apply new calk when wet or it will be a waste. I use top notch GE for bathrooms. I like the tape mask method. tape, calk, finger, remove tape and one light go over with finger. Get an extra tube and practice on something else if you aren't confident or you will have an ugly mess. good luck.
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05-19-2004, 01:20 PM | #7 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: Canada
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For reapplying the new - I got one of those little squeegy things with the rubber blade and red plastic handle. Makes a really nice circular even corner bead the whole way.
I don't know a name for it other than "caulk corner applicator." Like this one. - it says... "After you've applied the new caulk, use the Caulk-Rite tool to remove the excess, and create a perfectly smooth, professional bead line! " Last edited by Tirian; 05-19-2004 at 01:49 PM.. |
05-28-2004, 02:52 PM | #10 (permalink) |
Junkie
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Also, ina ddition to advise good quality silicone caulk, let em add this:
Before caulking the joints between tub and wall, fill the tub with water. You need to have the tub settle to its lowest point so that the gap between it and the wall is at its greatest width. That way when the gap is filled and the caulk has set, when you let out the water the caulk is compressed. If you caulk when the tub is empty, each time you fill the tub and add your weight to it, the joint is stretched apart which will eventually cause the joint to fail. I prefer the GE Silicone, personally,
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