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Don't turn up the music unless the music is going to be the main part of the experience. If not, it has to be really QUIET. Just some Mozart, Bach or Miles Davis in the middle distance. Bars with food are better suited to mid volume music then dedicated restaurants.
The restaurant owner needs to use their ear and hear the "music" of the restaurant's ambient noise (the clatter of coffee spoons, the murmer of conversation, the popping and pouring of wine bottles).
They then need to play tunes that compliment that ambience. In an emergency, the right kind of music might be able to cover up undesirable ambient noise, but it's risky.
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