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My best ever ever ever - Copenhagen, Denmark. It was awesome! It could almost be a destination! Open, airy, cafes and shops. Quiet places to sleep. And you can smoke anywhere.
Worst... That crappy-ass terminal in Atlanta - the new one that's like a bus station (Terminal F?). It feels like temporary housing - just a steel building like a wharehouse. Seems like I always end up waiting in that one.
For long layovers, I've learned to go to the international terminal and people-watch. You don't see a lot of obese European women - in fact, they're often quite slinky and nice. And your odds of getting to smoke are greater in the international area.
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