How to adjust the flame on a oxy-acetelyne cutting torch...?
 

Ok, so I've been playing with this little torch for a while, and I've gotten fairly decent at cutting stuff, but I'm still wondering if I am adjusting the flame right. I was told to use about 4 pounds of acetelyne, and around 20 lbs oxygen, and here is what I do:

I turn on the acetelyne, spark it, and adjust it so that the soot goes away and the flame is off the tip about an eight of an inch. Then I turn on the oxy and turn it up till I get the nice sharp cone pattern, though oftentimes, I have about 7 good looking cones and the top one is a little smaller than all the others. Anyway, I get the oxygen all adjusted so when I pull the lever on the cutting torch I get one big bright flame, not a defined cone or anything, but a big hot flame. It seems to cut well, but my cuts are really sloppy and there is tons of slag... what can I do to increase my proficiency with the torch?

Anyone good with one here? (BTW these things are fun! ):D

when setting the flame you seem fairly ok. When you turn on the oxy adjust it till the feathered end on the cone(centre flame) dissapears , once there is not a loud sounding noise before you put the pressure on it is ok.
Make sure you have the right size nozzle for the plate you are cutting. To much slag adjust your cutting speed you are going to slow. If you are cutting a heavy plate 10mm+ just put a bit of heat along where you are cutting first, you will get a smoother cut

plate thickness 3-6 mm nozzle 1/32 .... 2lb acety 15 lb oxy

6-12 mm nozzle 3/64 .... 2lb acety 25-30lb oxy

12-25mm nozzle 1/16 ....2lb acety 30-35lb oxy

hope this helps.

also make sure you tip is clean before you start. It took me 20 minutes to realize there was a bunch of slag built up on my tip and thats why it wasnt cutting right.

Don't hold the tip too close, and angle it in the direction of the cut. I find the resting my offhand on a folded leather apron helps me keep steady, which is also key. The more you do it, the easier it'll be, like everything else.

You could also try a different tip on your torch. There are several different cutting heads (tips) for most torches and you may be able to solve your problem there.

I always adjusted my settings by eyeballing the tight white flame and listening for any popping. I'm no pro but I can usually get the job done with minimal mess and grinding.

Keep the tip moving slowly back and forth when preheating the metal....never hold the tip still when preheating............Also never hit the tip against the metal to relight the tip... The flame should stay blue when you hit the oxg. lever not turn orange.................

aim the tip towards the way you are moving, that helps alot

When you hit the handle, adjust it so teh flame stays blue, but doesn't change shape/color very much. When you hit the handle, you dont want a significant change in teh flame. This way you blow out the metal, rather than altering the heat and flame characteristics every time you pull the O2 on. Also make sure to aim the tip in the direction your going to preheat the metal. Makes a smoother, faster cut then going straight up and down. I have found a 15degree angle works well, as much as 30 or even 40 in some instances will work nicely.

a not - so - related - but - damn - close question:
I do a great deal of TIG welding and I have just recently starting doing a lot more Al. Does anyone pre-heat before welding? Especially thicker pieces? Ive done some reading up on the subject and i get 50/50 opinions on it. Any advice?

I have not when TIG welding, but I have not done that much. What metals are you welding?
Usually it is only mild steel plates from 20 mm up that I have ever seen pre heated

when your cutting point it the way you are moving a little like aryan said and if you can find some sort of edge to slide along the torch just make sure your not sliding along the tip of the torch where its hot. i used a length of 2inch square tube for a long time and it worked pretty well.

Peryn's got it down. I've been using cutting torches for over 30 years. And I worked in Welding Supply for about 8 years. Use the methods that he described, and you should be fine. Keep a good steady speed going, without too many jerky movements. If you hold the torch in one place to long, the slag underneath the cut will "rollback" and refill your kerf.

So far as pre-heating metal prior to welding goes...I've only ever done it to cast iron. Cast iron is tricky to work with. Get it too hot, too fast, and it'll crack. If it cools too fast, it'll crack. I always slowly pre-heated the work with a torch (the key being slowly), effected the repair (use nickel alloy rod), then covered the piece with sand allowing it to cool overnight. Works like a charm.

JusticeForPhat - Ive done TiG for a while.. I never really preheated Al, because the thicknesses I worked with if I preheated I would have had very warped work.

Thicker.. anything more than 1/2" I'd preheat a bit, but even that isnt really necessary

setting up the cutting torch
 

you set your bottles at 1-4 ratio first 10 gas and 40 oxy then turn your gas on high and lite not coors lol then turn down when it gets stable, then adjust your oxy till it sounds like a sheet tearing and it has a feather on the end now you can rip the metal with no slag

---------- Post added at 06:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:49 PM ----------

setting up first is important because the rest will not matter unless your good to go,you run the torch along the metal you will cut wether a track or by hand to remove oil and rust then you will cut the best heart you ever saw